56 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



September, 1912 



regular intervals while they are making 

 roots. 



One thorough watering every two weeks 

 will be sufficient, unless they are planted 

 in very small pots that dry out extra 

 quickly. I have found that by far the 

 most satisfactory way of planting bulbs 

 for conservatory display, is to use a modi- 

 fication of the florist's "flat." I have had 

 made, boxes, approximating three feet 

 long, eight inches wide, by five inches high. 

 One kind of bulb is planted to a box, the 

 number depending on the size of the bulb. 



In the case of hyacinths (with the ex- 

 ception of exhibition hyacinths as noted 

 below), large trumpet narcissus and jon- 

 quils 50 bulbs were used to fill a box of 

 this size, without crowding. Of the crocus, 

 100 bulbs were necessary for the same space, 

 and of the f reesias I have used 1 50 and 200 

 with equal success. I prefer the latter 

 number. The boxes except those with 

 freesias are stored in the dark cellar, 

 and not only afford a much finer dis- 

 play than when small pots are used, but 

 greatly facilitate planting and caring 

 for the bulbs. A few experiences will 

 teach the amateur, that it is far better as 

 well as cheaper, to buy his bulbs by the 

 hundred, getting only a few varieties of 

 each kind, than to buy a dozen or two, of 

 a great many unknown species merely 

 from their descriptions. The following 

 list can be depended upon to give full 

 satisfaction under the most trying con- 

 ditions. 



Hyacinths. White French Roman is the 

 earliest to blossom; can be had by Christ- 

 mas if planted early; each bulb produces 

 several flower spikes. Pink French Roman, 

 semi-double, and so pale as to be almost 

 white is later than the white variety; 

 tinted with pink in the older blossoms. 

 Blue French Roman, is much later than 

 either the white or pink varieties, and the 

 blossoms rather scanty for a display. 

 White Italian is much later than the 

 French Roman, but almost as satisfactory; 

 flowers tinted pink as they grow older; 

 petals deeply cut giving a fringy, feathery 

 appearance. Satisfactory either for dis- 

 play or for cutting. 



All the Roman hyacinths should be 

 planted in good potting soil, before the 

 15th of September if early bloom is de- 

 sired and stored in a cold dark place for 

 eight weeks to three months. Plant the 

 bulbs with the bulb-noses barely showing 

 above the soil. The White Roman will be 

 ready for forcing first, then the Pink, Light 

 Blue, and White Italian in the order given. 

 These latter may be brought up at the same 

 time as the White Roman and will bloom 

 well, but need an extra two weeks in the 

 daik for best development. 



Miniature Dutch hyacinths can be 

 bought in almost every tint, they are most 

 satisfactory, sure to bloom, and last a long 

 time in good condition. Though called 

 "miniature" they are as large as the 

 regular "mixture" hyacinths. 



First size exhibition hyacinths should 

 be grown in single pots only, for best effect. 



The special hyacinth pots with extra root- 

 room assure the amateur of extra large 

 blooms that will prove a great surprise to 

 those who have never before seen what a 

 single bulb can do. One of my flower 

 spikes (La Grandesse) last year, measured 

 fourteen inches in height, and three and 

 three quarters through. Plant with merely 

 the nose of the bulb protruding from the 

 soil. Should be left in a dark place for 

 fully twelve weeks, or until the roots strike 

 through the drainage hole of the flower 

 pot. This root development varies in 

 different bulbs, so it is safest to wait 

 until they appear well-rooted, rather than 

 depend on any definite time limit. This is 

 equally true of all kinds of bulbs. 



Narcissus. Polyanthus narcissus should 

 be started, as soon as received, in bowls or 

 pans of water, and in full light. Bought 

 and started early in September they will 

 perfect their blossoms in time to give place 

 to the White Roman hyacinths. Or, if 

 not desired for conservatory display, but 

 for house culture, a few may be planted 

 immediately and the rest stored in a cool 

 dark place where they will neither freeze 

 nor start into growth and may be brought 

 up and forced at intervals all during the 

 winter as desired. As the bulbs will not 

 all bloom at exactly the same time, a 

 continuous effect for the living room is 

 gained if a single glass bowl is kept filled 

 with these bulbs. As one bulb finishes 

 blooming its roots may be carefully dis- 

 entangled from the rest, and its place 

 taken by a new bulb. I have used this 

 plan for several years and found it most 

 satisfactory. 



The Chinese sacred narcissus can also 

 be grown easily in water and pebbles. 

 They may be started in full light and should 

 be kept from draughts and sudden changes 

 of temperature. The Polyanthus narcissus 

 is much hardier and surer of blossom for 

 the beginner. All these will do better in 

 glass bowls, than in bowls of china, pottery, 

 etc., that will not admit the light. Of the 

 number of varieties listed, the following 



Buy good heavy bulbs and grow them slowly at first 

 and you can have blooms like this in the holidays 



are the best: Paper White Grandiflora, 

 pure white, and absolutely sure to bloom; 

 from eight to thirteen flowers crowning a 

 single stalk. Double Roman, white double 

 orange centre. Grand Monarque, white, 

 with a primrose cup; later than the Paper 

 White. Grand Soleil d'Or, deep yellow, 

 orange-red cup. 



Of the ordinary trumpet narcissus I find 

 those with the large trumpets are most 

 worth while: Emperor, deep golden 

 yellow with darker trumpet; Empress, 

 white perianth, yellow trumpet; Princeps, 

 sulphur and golden yellow; Van Sion, 

 double, deep yellow. Plant the same as 

 hyacinths, and do not bring up until 

 January if planted early in September. 

 They will closely follow the White Italian 

 hyacinths and should be used next in order. 

 This applies both to the large trumpet 

 narcissus, and jonquils. 



Although the jonquils are not of much 

 account for a conservatory display, on 

 account of their spindly habit of growth 

 and small flowers, a few should be grown 

 for their fragrance, as a few pans of bulbs 

 in blossom will fill a house with their 

 odor. Campernelle Rugulosus is the 

 largest of all, and most satisfactory. The 

 poetaz hybrids are also good. 



Freesias should be started in full fight 

 and are often a failure through lack of 

 knowledge of this point. The flowers are 

 very fragrant and many on one stalk. 



Crocus gives a very pretty spring-like 

 effect in the conservatory and can be 

 planted very close together in shallow boxes 

 or pots. The yellow crocus bloom much 

 earlier than the other varieties, treated 

 like hyacinths they can be forced for 

 January onward. 



Plant the same as hyacinths, but may 

 be put very close together, merely avoid- 

 ing contact with each other. Can be 

 forced any time for January on, if planted 

 early in September. 



Those named above are by far the most 

 satisfactory bulbs for the amateur to grow. 

 Yet it is well, each year to try a few new 

 kinds, for the purpose of enlarging 

 your bulb experience, as well as the pleas- 

 ure gained from the uncertainty of the 

 experiment. Successes won through your 

 own unaided efforts with unfamiliar bulbs, 

 are doubly enjoyable. But for your main 

 display, those bulbs that you can depend 

 on absolutely for wealth of blossom and 

 fragrance, the old, familiar, time-tested 

 ones, are the only ones worth large expendi- 

 ture of either time, effort, or money. 



A fist of less familiar bulbs, worthy of 

 being tested by the amateur, would in- 

 clude the following in order of their merit 

 and chances of success in inexperienced 

 hands. 



Early tulips, single and double, in named 

 varieties: anemones, ranunculus, Allium 

 Neapolitamim, star of Bethlehem, peacock 

 his, Spanish iris, lily-of-the-valley, ixias, 

 Triteleia uniflora, gladiolus (florists' forcing 

 varieties only), Easter lilies, and a few 

 commoner varieties of the hardier 

 amaryllis. 



