;/ y ZiffJ &M? E* p THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



A TJ G TJ S T , 1912 



a. 



of 

 the 



Gems 

 Piano World 



The painter's art lies 



upon the surface of the 



world; he reproduces nature 



as he finds it; but the musician's and 

 piano maker's art lies beneath the surface. 

 The rough material of Harmony, like the 

 diamond, is in deep mines, earth en- 

 crusted, and does not exist as a thing of 

 priceless beauty until refined and made 

 luminous by earnest, painstaking toil. 



Kimball Pianos Result 

 of 55 years' Experience 



Petite Grand $650 



They are the product of ripe experience, 

 good material and good intentions, and 

 the INTENT of the manufacturer marks 

 the difference between things made to SERVE and things 

 made to SELL. The makers of Kimball Pianos find it profit- 

 able to devote greater thought to the making than to the 

 selling, hence orders for Kimball Pianos are always in advance 

 of the production. Qur C0L0NIAL Slyk al $36S and our PETITE grand at 



$650. represent the highest standard of values in tonal quality, 

 Wearing quality and price. If no dealer handles them, you can buy 

 direct at our regularly established one price. Very easy credit terms 

 extended to purchasers. 



Beautifully Illustrated Catalogues Kimball Pianos, Kimball 

 Player-Pianos and Kimball Self-Playing Pipe Organs for 

 the Home, mailed free on request to Dept. 173 C. 



Established 1857 



Colonial $365 



W. W. Kimball Co. 



304-308 South Wabash Avenue Chicago 



THE LONG — LIFE 



WHITE ENAME L 



AN intense pure white enamel finish. Will not show laps nor brush " 

 marks. Send for Sample Panel and Free Booklet. Address crj^ 

 [Pratt & Lambert-Inc, 129 Tonawanda Street, Buffalo, N. Y. In 

 Canada, 75 Courtwright Street, Bridgeburg, Ontario. 



PRATT I LAMBERT VARNISHES "^JS!?* 



Planting A Strawberry Bed 



BY PLANTING strawberries in August in- 

 stead of April one can have bearing plants 

 the next season, besides being able to get a crop 

 of peas, beans, early com, etc., from the ground 

 before the berries are planted. The soil for straw- 

 berries should be heavy in texture. They do not 

 do well in a light, sandy soil; but whether your 

 soil be heavy or light, trench it two spades deep, 

 turning in a liberal quantity of manure. When 

 trenching, always remove a spit large enough to 

 give you plenty of room to work, and then throw 

 the top soil to the bottom of the finished bed, 

 distributing your manure as evenly as possible 

 during the digging. I use a wagon load of manure 

 to every ioo square feet of bed, but my soil is 

 extremely light and this quantity should be some- 

 what reduced for heavier soils. Virgin soil of 

 good texture would require only about half this 

 amount. 



When ordering your plants be particularly 

 careful to get them from a reliable source; if the 

 soil has been shaken from the roots by the time 

 the plant reaches you, it is not worth planting, for 

 it has suffered a check and will not bear satis- 

 factorily the following season. 



If you already have a strawberry bed you can 

 raise your own plants each season by simply 

 potting up the first runners that appear and setting 

 them in a coldframe where they can be shaded for 

 a few days and carefully watered. For shading 

 I use frames made of cheesecloth, which can also 

 be used for protecting seeds and seedlings, to 

 prevent lettuce from going to seed, etc. When 

 the berry plants are well rooted, set them out in 

 the bed. 



I always mark off the bed in drills before planting, 

 using a line and draw hoe, so as to guarantee 

 straight rows. Mark off the rows two feet apart 

 and set the plants one foot apart in the row. Of 

 course, this applies only to gardens that are to be 



After setting the strawberry plants firm the soil 

 around them with the hands 



cultivated by hand. Be sure that the staminate 

 and pistillate flowering types are planted in suf- 

 ficiently close proximity to ensure proper fertiliza- 

 tion. This is done by planting in alternate rows. 

 Use a trowel for planting and for measuring the 

 distances, most trowels being one foot long (six- 

 inch blade and six-inch handle). I put the plants 

 in a flat or small box, after knocking them out of 

 the pots, and drag this along the drill, setting the 

 plants as I go, using the trowel to space them. 

 If the ground is mellow, all that need be done is to 

 jab the trowel into the soil and press it from side 

 to side until the hole is large enough to accommo- 

 date the plant. If, however, the bed was prepared 

 some time ahead and the soil has baked a little, 

 loosen it when planting by jabbing the trowel down 

 into it several times where the plant is to be placed, 

 and twisting it. Always set the plants so that 

 they will be about the same height above the 

 ground as they were in the pot. Firm the soil 

 around each plant with the hand and then go over 

 the bed, treading down the soil with the feet. 

 Keep all runners removed. 



Artificial watering must at times be resorted to, 

 particularly after setting the plants. Give the soil 

 a thorough drenching and the following day, when 



