96 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



October, 1912 



Even the most unpretentious shed can be trelllsed 

 with vines 



shingles, slate, tile or the more modern 

 patent coverings for the latter. In the 

 various types of Colonial so common in the 

 Eastern states all of these side wall materials 

 are to be found; the older among them were 

 every one used in early American buildings, 

 including both field and cut stone, and it 

 has been found in recent years that the 

 trim, doors and windows of Colonial styles 

 are so distinctive that the true Colonial 

 feeling can be created with stucco and con- 

 crete now so popular. In fact, such work 

 has a precedent of appearance in the old 

 plastered houses of brick and stone. 



There is, of course, a difference in the 

 cost of these materials, but in a small struc- 

 ture the total increase or saving does not 

 begin to equal the satisfaction of suit- 

 ability. Wooden construction is the cheap- 

 est and varies little whether shingles, clap- 

 boards or siding cover the walls. Stucco 

 over metal lath costs about five per cent 

 more; over hollow tile, twelve and a half 

 per cent. more. Brick costs 7 to 10 per 

 cent, more for an eight-inch wall. Stone 

 of any sort varies widely with the distance 

 from supply and the cost of labor. 



Cedar shingles furnish the cheapest roof 

 covering at about $6 a square (100 sq. ft.) 

 and should last fifteen years. Heart cypress 

 shingles at about $10 a square will last 

 from thirty to fifty years on a roof. On 

 side walls cypress shingles will practically 

 wear out before rotting. 



Of the permanent, fireproof coverings 

 asbestos shingles cost about $15 a square; 

 slates cost $12 to $18; and tile costs $18 

 to $22. All of these are to be had in a 

 variety of shapes, sizes and colors. Metal 

 tile of tin or galvanized iron painted sup- 

 plies a good fire resisting roof at $9 to 

 $10.50 a square. A covering of standing 

 seam tin can be had for about the same 

 money. These metal roofs require paint- 

 ing every two or three years. 



The size and interior arrangement of a 



tool house must depend upon individual 

 requirements, but it is well to remember 

 that the domination of one dimension makes 

 for good appearance, while the cubical is 

 usually ugly. Keep the whole effect low. 

 Let the length of the floor plan be greater 

 than its width, the principal side or sides 

 wider than the height, and then screen out 

 by appropriate planting the conspicuous 

 fact that the ends are of greater height 

 than breadth; make it possible to see only 

 the best aspects of your outbuilding. 

 Lilacs, catalpa and cherry trees are par- 

 ticularly suitable. Sufficient floor room, a 

 work bench with drawers beneath, at least 

 two windows for light and ventilation, and 

 absence of dampness usually answer the 

 average requirements. The spade, hoe 

 rake, watering pot and many other tools 

 may be hung on the wall, but the lawn 

 mower, hose reel, lawn, sprinkler, rubbish 

 can and all such things occupy floor space. 

 Be sure to allow room enough for them. 



For the foundation, excavate a trench 

 twelve inches wide, to a depth below frost, 



If you have a greenhouse the tool house and potting 

 room may be combined 



and fill with concrete consisting of one part 

 Portland cement, three parts sand and six 

 parts gravel. This need not extend higher 

 than six inches above ground level. When 

 hard, erect the stud framework, remember- 

 ing that the effect of concrete can be had 

 with stucco over metal lath at much less 

 expense, there usually being little need of 

 fireproof construction in a small tool house. 

 Absence of dampness must now be secured 

 by the choice of suitable materials and 

 proper construction. The matter is im- 

 portant because of the damage done by 

 rust to hand machines, tools and metallic 

 implements of any sort. By the use of 

 dry lumber, tar building paper and by 

 double boarding, the desired result is 

 attained. The building paper should be 

 placed between the outside boarding and 

 the shingles, clapboards or siding; between 

 the boarding and the roof covering; and 

 between the first and finish floors. The 

 latter should both be matched and laid at 



right angles to each other. A good finish 

 for the interior is to sheath walls and ceiling 

 over the studs and joists. 



The waterproofing of stucco or concrete 

 is accomplished by incorporating suitable 

 materials in the mixture or by application 

 of surface finishes. Clay free from vege- 

 table matter and in a finely powdered state 

 may be mixed with the cement. Two to 

 five per cent, of the weight of sand in the 

 mixture used is about right. As an exterior 

 finish a mixture of alum and lye in water is 

 effective. Use one pound of lye and three 

 pounds of alum dissolved in two gallons of 

 water, applying to the green surface with a 

 calcimining brush. There are also on the 

 market several excellent patented water- 

 proofing preparations. 



Spruce or hemlock at about equal cost 

 make the best stud frame, while for ex- 

 terior finish several woods are available. 

 There is cypress, the most enduring of 

 woods, at $50 a thousand. It contains 

 little resin, offering a good surface for 

 paint which it holds well. Soft yellow fir 

 from the Northwest is now much used at 

 S40 a thousand. Like cypress it takes 

 both stain and paint. The cheapness and 

 durability of Southern pine has led to its 

 extensive use; in fact, in this vicinity it 

 stands first, with cypress second. Pine 

 from North Carolina at $35 a thousand is 

 less than that from Georgia and just as 

 good. It does not take paint so well as 

 cypress or white pine, and it was very 

 largely to meet the requirement thus im- 

 posed that wood stains and dyes came into 

 being. Creosote is the basis of most of 

 them; they never crack or peel but sink 

 into and preserve the wood. Anything 

 Colonial is better painted white. 



A material saving, even in so small a 

 building as a tool house, can be effected by 

 making use of standard sizes of doors, 

 windows and frames, and stock patterns 

 of columns, brackets, mouldings, etc. 



Good tools are essential. They cost money and should 

 be given due care 



