158 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



November, 191? 



glimpse is attractive when the whole struc- 

 ture seen from the same spot would be ugly. 



Floor plan and interior arrangement must 

 meet individual requirements, but there is 

 little fear that too much room will be 

 allowed to get around the car for cleaning 

 and adjustment, or that there wall be too 

 much light, either natural or artificial. 

 Windows of good size are necessary on both 

 sides of the car, and sashes in the doors are 

 desirable. When the site permits, it is a 

 good idea to have doors in each end. This 

 permits driving in one way and out the 

 other, avoiding backing out, turning out- 

 side, or a turn table, although the latter 

 when the garage is large enough, has other 

 advantages. It permits the car to be so 

 turned as to bring the best light from a 

 window on any part needing attention, and 

 also serves as a washing platform, a gutter 

 being provided under its edge to carry away 

 the water. 



Make sure that the entrance is big enough 

 to get the car through without scraping the 

 running board or crushing the top. Slid- 

 ing doors in two sections are best, half sliding 

 each side. Hinged doors should swing out- 

 ward. With this latter arrangement and a 

 concrete floor sloping slightly toward the en- 

 trance the car is easily pushed out without 

 power in case of fire, while ordinarily the 

 brake holds it. The drain for carrying off 

 wash water is then located just inside the 

 door, instead of at its usual position in the 

 centre of the building toward which the 

 whole floor slopes. A revolving arm on the 

 ceiling providing a water connection for hose 

 at one end and an electric light at the other 

 makes washing the car an easy matter. Of 

 course it goes without saying that electric 

 light is the only safe illuminant for a garage. 



The interior conveniences are best ranged 

 along one or both sides of the building and 

 should include plenty of space for storage 

 of supplies, tools and stationary equipment. 

 For repairs, a well lighted bench with a vise 

 should not be forgotten. Maple makes a 



good bench, and under it may well be 

 located drawers for tools and spare parts. 

 Do not omit to provide a large cupboard 

 with broad shelves and hooks to protect 

 clothing, robes and many other things from 

 dust. Space will also be required for the 

 pump which brings gasolene into the build- 

 ing from the underground tank outside, 

 and to set up a barrel of oil on a rack high 

 enough to allow a measure to stand beneath 

 the faucet. The underground tank systems 

 are not expensive, a sixty-gallon outfit can 

 be had for $23 and the price increases ac- 

 cording to capacity and type. Extra tire 

 casings are best hung on long hooks at- 

 tached to the wall. 



Whatever the wall construction, the 

 foundation and floor are practically the 

 same. For molded or reinforced concrete, 

 excavate a trench to a depth below frost 

 line six inches wider than the proposed wall, 

 say fourteen inches. Fill this to within eight 

 inches of the ground level with concrete 

 consisting of one part portland cement, 

 three parts clean coarse sand and six parts 

 broken stone or gravel. When sufficiently 

 hard, the forms may be built for the pro- 

 posed eight-inch walls consisting of one 

 part portland cement, two parts clean 

 coarse sand and four parts broken stone 

 or gravel. A stable fork will probably have 

 to be used to work the large pieces of 

 aggregate away from the surface, letting 

 the mortar and fine material through so as 

 to make a dense, smooth surface. The 

 forms may be taken away in forty-eight 

 hours in warm weather, but a longer time 

 is needed when it is cool. Like stucco, con- 

 crete should be sheltered from the sun in 

 warm weather and continually wet down to 

 prevent too rapid drying. You cannot give 

 concrete too much water after it has set. 



For terra cotta tile or brick construction 

 only a footing carried below frost line is 

 necessary. Eight or ten inches is deep 

 enough and it should be three inches wider 

 each side than the proposed wall. The 



The pergola can be "most appropriately introduced In associating the garage and the garden. Plant it 



with flowering vines 



Sometimes a gardenesaue style of embellishment 

 is best adapted to an isolated building 



concrete floor is built on a foundation of 

 cinders or screened gravel six to twelve 

 inches deep according to the climate and 

 character of the soil. Porous soil and a 

 mild climate needs little foundation, but 

 clayey soil demands blind drains of coarse 

 gravel or tile pipe from the lowest points 

 in the excavation to carry off any water that 

 might accumulate in the porous foundation. 

 Floors sometimes heave out of position 

 because of water freezing under them. Fill 

 over the foundation to a depth of three 

 inches with the concrete consisting of one 

 part portland cement, two parts clean 

 coarse sand and four parts broken stone or 

 screened gravel. Tamp until the water 

 begins to show. 



The finish coat should be one inch thick, 

 consisting of one part portland cement and 

 one and a half parts clean coarse sand or 

 crushed stone screenings. Spread this be- 

 fore the concrete has set, making sure of 

 a good bond between the finish coat and 

 base. Smooth with a wooden float and 

 do not trowel too much until it has begun to 

 stiffen, thus avoiding separation of cement 

 and sand with consequent hair cracks and 

 poor wearing surface. Keep the finished 

 floor protected from dirt, air currents and 

 sun until hard and from use for three or 

 four days, sprinkling frequently to keep it 

 moist, so that the setting will not be rapid 

 enough to cause cracks. 



And when the building is completed, 

 don't forget the planting. An outbuilding 

 more than the house itself needs this to 

 clothe its nakedness and draw it into the gar- 

 den scheme. Let the vines of the pergola or 

 arbor approaches climb over the garage 

 as w T ell; and have the vines even if you 

 don't have the pergola. English ivy gives 

 a green cloak the year around; wistaria, 

 roses and clematis, flowering in the order 

 named, lend touches of color. These can 

 be trained upon rough stone walls and upon 

 bricks wdien the joints have been raked out 

 to a depth of half an inch. Trellises of 

 cypress or white pine may be used also, and 

 they are necessary on stucco or concrete 

 walls. Don't forget the effectiveness of a 

 tree background, and of a hardy perennial 

 or hedge border along the drive and the 

 path from the house. 



