February, 19 13 



AMERICAN HOMES AND GARDENS 



69 



Water by sub-irrigation after "pricking-off." An inch or so of water 

 is poured into the metal tray 



easily arranged; simply place the seed flat over it by sup- 

 porting it with two or three bricks. Otherwise, the back of 

 the kitchen range, or a large lamp, or an oil heater, may be 

 utilized, care being taken, in the last case, to have some 

 metal between the direct heat of the flame and the flat, 

 which should be far enough above it not to get actually hot 

 on the bottom — just nice and warm. 



Such a degree of heat will, of course, tend to dry the 

 earth out very rapidly, and this may be counteracted by 

 placing a large pane of glass over the box, raised a quarter 

 of an inch or so at one end. Until the seeds begin to break 

 ground they may be kept in the dark as well as not; in fact, 



Ready for the garden soil. Harden off first by a few nights' exposure 

 to weather out of doors 



being best to use for this purpose. If they can be kept in a 

 bay-window or some similar nook, which may be shut off 

 from the rest of the room by curtains or doors, quite ideal 

 surroundings may be provided. 



The temperature at which the seedlings of most early 

 vegetables and flowers will thrive should be about forty-five 

 to fifty at night and sixty to seventy during the day. When 

 the temperature of the room will not be too much lowered, 

 air should be given freely for a while every day, care being 

 taken not to let any cold draft strike directly on to the seed- 

 boxes. In many cases the air in the room may be freshened 

 by opening a door or window in an adjoining room. If the 



if placed where the sunlight strikes them directly, should plants are kept near a window, on very cold, windy nights, 



be kept shaded by a piece of newspaper laid on the glass 

 covering, but the minute they are up they should receive all 

 the light possible and be kept near the window. 



THE CRITICAL PERIOD OF GROWTH 



From the time the cotyledons or "seed-leaves" appear 



it may be advisable to move them further into the room, or 

 to put a layer or two of newspapers, which are splendid 

 "non-conductors" of cold or heat, between the glass and the 

 plants. While most of the seeds sown will do well, as 

 mentioned above, in a temperature of forty-five to fifty at 



until the seedlings are big enough to transplant is the most night, there are several that require fifty-five to sixty, to 



come along as rapidly as they ought. These include toma- 

 toes, peppers, and egg-plants; melons, cucumbers, corn, and 

 lima beans (which are sometimes started 

 in paper pots or on small pieces of in- 

 verted sod packed together in a flat and 

 covered with fine light soil), and such 

 heat-needing flowers as Begonias, Salv- 

 ias, and Heliotrope. These, fortunately 

 for the grower of plants in the house, 

 may all come along after the early veg- 

 etables: for instance, if cabbage and 

 lettuce seed is planted in February and 

 tomatoes and peppers a month or so 

 later, they will be sprouted about- the 

 time the former are transplanted, and 

 can then occupy the space thus made 

 vacant; and by the time these are ready 

 to transplant, and put outside, the 

 earlier vegetables will have been set 

 out in the garden, so there will again be 

 room for the newcomers. 



All this may seem a lot of trouble to 

 go to; but, as a matter of fact, after 

 the seeds are once planted, it will re- 

 quire but a few minutes' attention 

 daily — and there is no garden operation 



critical period of plant growth. If the flats have been 

 prepared as suggested above, no further watering will be 

 necessary in most cases until the seeds 

 have sprouted. If it is necessary, as is 

 indicated by the soil becoming light in 

 color and dry to the touch on the sur- 

 face, give the flat another sub-irrigation, 

 or water with a very fine spray or 

 through a piece of thick cloth in order 

 that the surface may be neither washed 

 nor "crusted." As the little seedlings 

 start along care must be taken not to 

 over-water: they will do better and be 

 safer if kept slightly on the "dry side." 

 When water is given, however, it should 

 be a pretty thorough soaking, and the 

 sub-irrigation method is by far the best 

 way of applying it, as the soil will be 

 thoroughly wet through, and the foliage 

 neither wet nor the little seedlings bent 

 over by the force of water coming in 

 contact with them. If watering must be 

 done with a watering can, be careful to 

 apply it only on a bright morning, so 

 that the foliage will become thoroughly 

 dried off before night. Moisture in the 



air, as well as in the soil, is necessary for the best results. 

 Where the room is heated with steam or hot air, it is rather 

 difficult to maintain the normal degree of moisture in the 

 atmosphere. This unfavorable condition may be to a large 

 extent counteracted by giving all the fresh air possible and 

 by evaporating water near the plants, flat, shallow pans 



Box of stock seedlings ready for 

 transplanting 



Young beets ready for transplanting 



more intensely interesting than closely watching the tiny 

 seed sprouts pushing their way up through the soil, and 

 growing daily larger and stronger as they strive toward the 

 life-giving light. 



Eternal vigilance — which is not at all the same thing 

 as constant attention — is the price of success; and when it 



