32 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



February, 1913 



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At the country home of Mr. F. H. Mason, Akron, O. 

 A Wagner Plan and Planting 



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WAGNER experience and skill expressed through 

 the medium of vigorous stock grown in the 

 Wagner Park Nurseries — this service is at the 

 command of every garden lover. 



Whatever the possibilities of your grounds, large or 

 small, Wagner insight can be of great help to you and 

 the Wagner plants will realize for you the fullest measure 

 of lasting satisfaction. 



The wide range of shrubs, trees, plants, hardy borders 

 and ornamental vines produced in the fullest of per- 

 fection at the Wagner Park Nurseries will enable you 

 to secure the most pleasing effects in the shortest possible 

 time. 



For those who prefer to do their own planting we are 

 pleased to submit our ideas and to furnish the plants 

 that will be certain to respond most gratefuly to the 

 care of the amateur. 



Write to-day for our handsome catalog and book "Plants 

 and Plans for Beautiful Surroundings." 



Wagner Park Nursery Company 



Box 713 Sidney, Ohio 



The Only Real Stains 



Don't judge shingle-staining by the crude and tawdry colors 

 made by cheap builders and painters which are nothing but 

 coarse paints thinned with kerosene or some other inflammable 

 cheapener. They give you no idea of the beautiful velvety 

 coloring effects of 



Cabot's Creosote Stains 



Cabot's colors are soft transparent — bringing out the natural 

 beauty of the wood — and lasting. Creosote is "the best wood 

 preservative known " and reduces inflammability. Result 

 — the most artistic and economical colorings for shingles, sid- 

 ing and other exterior woodwork. 



You can get Cabot's Stains all over the country. Send for samples 

 of stained wood and name of nearest agent. 



SAMUEL CABOT, Inc., Manfg. Chemists, 1 Oliver St., Boston, Mass. 



m 



Stained with Cabot's Shingle Stains. 

 H ollingsworth &° Bragdon, Arch'ls, Cranford, N. J. 



Also take off as many leaves as you can, without 

 affecting the beauty of the flower. Leaves in the 

 water make it foul. 



What has been said about cut flowers might also 

 apply to flowering plants. Magnificent plants of 

 azaleas and roses fade and drop their leaves as 

 though struck by a fiery blast a few hours after 

 they have been in the house. This can be avoided. 

 Most all plants carrying an abundance of bloom 

 need plenty of water; a light sprinkling does not 

 reach the roots and the heat of the room quickly 

 evaporates the little bit of water that has been put 

 on. With a rose or an azalea the effect of light 

 watering is not seen until the damage is done and 

 the leaves are falling off. The thing to do with a 

 flowering plant is to soak it — put it in a pail of 

 water the first day you receive it, and let it stand 

 in the pail until the soil is thoroughly well saturated. 

 If you don't do this, it's your fault and not the 

 florist's that the plant does not do well. 



After your azalea goes out of flower do not put 

 it in the cellar to dry up and die. Keep it growing 

 and in the summer put it out-of-doors. It can be 

 taken indoors again the following fall. 



Massachusetts. John D. Lane. 



"Boosting" the House Plants 



EXAMINE the soil around the roots of any 

 house plant in the spring and you will find 

 it to be in an exhausted condition and perhaps 

 filled with worms. When soil gets in this con- 

 dition, something must be done, or else the plant 

 will steadily decline and by planting-out time will 

 have lost all its attractiveness. Lack of attention 

 in the spring, after a winter indoors, is the reason 

 why so many house plants are not in a really 

 flourishing condition when brought into the house 

 the following season. Even though the plants are 

 carefully treated during the summer, if they have 

 not had some stimulation during the early spring 

 months, they will not be in first class condition the 

 following fall. 



There are several ways of "boosting" the plants: 

 You can repot by putting the plant into a larger 

 or smaller receptacle; or you can dig off the top 

 loam, substitute new soil and give a direct appli- 

 cation of fertilizers to the roots. 



Repotting is not to be recommended at this time 

 of the year for the reason that the plants are not in 

 a condition to recover from the shock that repotting 

 entails. The other way — putting new loam on 

 top — brings good results if the loam is rich. The 

 best and most practical method, and the least 

 troublesome, is a combination of two of the ways 

 suggested — top dressing and the application of 

 fertilizer to the roots. 



First remove the soil in the pot, going down as 

 far as possible without injuring the roots. Before 

 putting in the new soil I drive a small pipe or tube, 

 depending on the size of the plant, through the 

 soil to within an inch of the bottom of the pot. 



Potted house plants can be fed by inserting a tube 

 to conduct fertilizer to the roots 



The Readers' Service will furnish information about foreign travel 



