64 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



February, 1913 



Proper Spraying Means Better Fruit 



JOULDS 

 PUMPS 



Good spraying means good fruit and 



farm products. And good spraying is 



impossible with an inferior sprayer. A steady 



spray — reaching every leaf and limb — is possible only 



with a Goulds Reliable Sprayer. 



Profitable Spraying 



Get this important fact, Mr. Fruit Grower and Farmer. Your 



operating expenses are the same, regardless of yield per acre. A 300 bushel per 



acre yield of potatoes costs no more to raise than 200 bushels per acre — if you 



use a Goulds Reliable Sprayer. The same thing applies to fruit and general farm 



crops. A Goulds Sprayer will double your profits. 



Spraying the Goulds way is the result of years of "know how." The pump 

 works easily, the nozzles spread the liquid all over the tree or plant without clog- 

 ging, and the agitators in the barrel keep the solution well mixed. Spraying with 

 Goulds Reliable Sprayers is easy work and twice as effective as any other method. 



They Give Absolute Satisfaction 



Goulds Reliable Sprayers are built to give satisfaction over a long period. And they do it, 

 too! All working parts are brass, to withstand chemical action. We make our own castings — 

 the best that go into any sprayers. The valves are positive in action. Goulds Reliable Sprayers 

 will outlast and outwear three ordinary sprayers — many thousands of users have proved it. 



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High Feeding and Root Pruning 



IT IS very important that a good strong start 

 is given to young fruit trees. If the trees are 

 set into impoverished soil, the wood gets hard and 

 the growth so sickly that it falls an easy victim to 

 the dreaded San Jose scale. With poor soil a tree 

 simply exists; with good soil it repays with a 

 bounteous harvest. 



Now, you can dig fertility into a soil! In 

 orchards of any size trenching the ground is too 

 expensive but for small orchards and fruit borders 

 trenching should certainly be considered. Add 

 one layer of manure to every spade depth trenched. 

 The details of trenching were given in The Garden 

 Magazine for May, 191 1, page 272. If trenching 

 is too expensive use a subsoil plow and plow deep. 

 Turn under as liberal a layer of manure as you 

 possibly can. 



I never dig a hole for a tree less than four feet 

 across and three feet deep, digging some manure 

 under the bottom. A layer of manure is then 

 put on the bottom and the top soil thrown in; a 

 little more manure is added and then some loam 

 that came from the second depth of soil. 



In some few cases the soil has been made too rich. 

 I have seen apple trees make six feet of new wood 

 in one season — advantageous in young trees but 

 it should be stopped when the fruiting time comes. 

 To do this, root prune. At a reasonable distance 

 around the tree (about three feet if the tree has 

 been planted for five or six years) , dig a trench the 

 width of a spade and cut all roots encountered to 

 a depth of two feet. Work under the centre of the 

 tree from all sides to discover if there is any tap 

 root. Cut the tap root about two feet below grade 

 level. Place a small flagstone or slab of iron under 

 the tap root, so that the roots will shoot off sideways 

 and form fibre in place of another tap root. Refill 

 the trench and tramp the soil just as you would when 

 planting a tree. 



New York. W. C. McC. 



How to Root Slips of Plants in 

 the House 



ROOTING slips of plants is really one of the 

 easiest things to do when you know how. 

 In nine cases out of ten, where failure is reported, 

 cuttings have been put in ordinary soil, often in 

 the pot the plant is expected to grow in when it 

 becomes large, the soil is saturated with water, 

 and the pot is put in some dark corner. The 

 cutting will not root; the leaves will turn yellow 

 and drop, and in a short time the cutting will rot 

 off close to the soil. The three great essentials to 

 success are warmth, light and moisture. 



My plan is to use nothing but clean, sharp sand. 

 Where there are but a few cuttings to root, I use 

 a dish that is not very deep (a soup plate is as 

 good as anything) and fill it with the sand, applying 

 all the water it can absorb. It should be wet all 

 through, but there should not be enough water 

 given to settle in the bottom of the vessel and be- 

 come stagnant. You can easily tell when the 

 sand is in proper condition by inserting your 

 finger in it until you touch the bottom of the plate. 

 If water fills into the bottom of the hole you have 

 made it too wet; but if the sand seems just moist 

 enough to remain in any shape you put it, it is 

 in the proper condition. Insert your cuttings, 

 squeezing the sand well about them; then place the 

 plate in some warm, light place. If the sun shines 

 on it, no harm is done. Indeed, I think some of the 

 vigorous plants, such as geranium, abutilon, fuchsia 

 and heliotrope, root more readily when exposed 

 to the sun than when kept in the shade. It is 

 very important to keep the sand always moist. 

 If you allow it to get dry, and you will observe 

 that water evaporates very rapidly from sand 

 because of the freedom with which air circulates 

 through it, your cuttings will be likely to fail. 

 But if you keep it evenly moist, new leaves will 

 start in about a week. Some kinds make roots 

 slowly; but when four or five leaves have grown, 

 remove the young plants to small pots, and you 

 will find that they have made strong, healthy 

 roots. I seldom lose a cutting when started in 

 this way. 



Pennsylvania. Elizabeth Gregg. 



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