86 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



March, 1913 



phosphate of potash two parts, dissolved in 

 water at the rate of one half an ounce to 

 the gallon. Some spare plants might be 

 grown in the kitchen garden or other spare 

 places for the special purpose of refilling 

 beds that have done duty for annuals or 

 early summer flowers. Transplanting should 

 not be done until the plants are in bud. 

 If removed earlier fresh growth might be 

 induced and flowering delayed or perhaps 

 prevented entirely. 



Before lifting, dig carefully around the 

 plants and give a thorough soaking of 

 water, a day previous to transplanting. 

 If possible choose a day when the sun is 

 not too powerful, and when there is no 

 drying wind. Water thoroughly after re- 

 moval and make the soil firm around the 

 plant by treading. For house, porch or 

 conservatory decoration the plants may be 

 taken up when in full flower and planted 

 in pots or tubs. 



After flowering cut down the tops to 

 about two inches from the ground and 

 protect the crowns with ashes, leaves or 

 coarse litter. Do not use manure as it 

 holds moisture which would likely result 

 in rotting the crown of the plant. 



The best results follow setting out young 

 plants each year, although the old ones 

 may be left for several years without divid- 

 ing. If you have a cool greenhouse, propa- 

 gation is of the simplest. Lift the plants 

 in the late fall, and set in boxes or plunge 

 in soil on the greenhouse bench. Within 

 a short time they will commence to throw 

 up suckers quite freely, and these should 

 be taken off when about three inches long, 

 the lower leaves removed and the end cut 

 immediately below a joint, and inserted in 

 boxes or pots of soil composed of two parts 

 sharp sand, one part leaf mould and one 

 part garden soil. 



As a good healthy plant will continue to 

 produce cuttings throughout the spring 

 months, many dozens of fine plants may 

 be had from it. As soon as the cuttings 

 are nicely rooted they should be potted up 



singly into two and one half or three inch 

 pots, and kept in a cool place until they 

 may be safely transferred to coldframes 

 in the spring. It is a debated point 

 among growers of the Early Flowering 

 chrysanthemum whether the young plants 

 should be pinched back or allowed to 

 "break" naturally. My preference is to 

 "pinch," that is, the point of the growing 

 shoot is taken off, by the finger and thumb 

 when the plants are about six inches high. 



The young plants are apt to become in- 

 fested with black fly, when grown too hot 

 but these may be held in check by the 

 use of tobacco powder or weak kerosene 

 emulsion. If the latter is used the most 

 effectual plan is to put the emulsion in an 

 open can into which each plant may be 

 easily dipped when grown in pots. 



Where neither greenhouse nor frame 

 is available, stock can be increased by 



One spray cut from a plant in tne open border. 

 Flowers four inches in diameter (Orange Masse) 



This is just one plant lifted from the open border 

 in full flower and potted for indoors 



lifting the old plants in the spring — 

 just after they have begun to make fresh 

 growth for the season — when it will be 

 found that they have made quite a lot 

 of underground suckers. Sever these from 

 the old plant with a sharp knife, and if 

 carefully planted (watered and shaded for 

 a day or two should the weather be dry 

 and hot) they will make splendid plants 

 for early fall bloom. 



Another successful method is to lift the 

 plants when they have finished flowering, 

 (first cutting off the old wood) and set 

 them quite close together in a sheltered 

 corner of the garden, working rather rich 

 light soil with plenty of sand around and 

 over the crown of the plants to the depth 

 of two inches, and as soon as freezing 

 weather sets in — usually late December 

 or early January in this part — cover all 

 with four inches of ashes. Immediately 

 the weather moderates in early spring, 



The single flowering Early Japanese chrysanthemum 

 is excellent for cutting 



remove the ash covering and the new 

 growth will soon start. Sometime in May 

 — according to weather conditions — they 

 can be divided and replanted as described 

 above. 



SOME GOOD VARIETIES 



Any list of varieties that may be 

 compiled, when dealing with a large group, 

 as in the present case, must of necessity 

 be based largely on personal preferences, 

 but I have named below only those that 

 have given me satisfaction and which will 

 in my judgment prove quite easy to grow. 

 The names are arranged in co'or sequence. 



Dolly Prince. Pure white, 2 feet, Sep- 

 tember. An ideal variety for disbudding. 



Doris Peto. Pure white, 2 feet, Septem- 

 ber. When partially disbudded flowers 

 may be grown six inches across. 



Market White. Pure white, 2 J feet, 

 September and October. A most excellent 

 free flowering variety, much improved by 

 partial disbudding. 



Queen of the Earlies. Pure white, 3^ 

 feet. A Japanese incurved variety, bloom- 

 ing in October. When disbudded the 

 flowers may be had quite 6 inches across. 



Cranford White. Blush white of excellent 

 quality, late September flowering, 2§ feet. 



Mme. Desgranges. Opens pale yellow, 

 but finishes pure white. Two and one half 

 feet, September and October. Although 

 now an old variety, being introduced by 

 Boucharlat of Lyons in 1874, it cannot be 

 dispensed with. It is among the hardiest, 

 and when disbudded gives flowers ranging 

 from 6 to 8 inches in diameter. I have 

 counted between three and four hundred 

 flowers on a seven-months old plant. 



Mrs. Burrell. Primrose yellow sport 

 from the preceding and similar in every 

 thing but color. 



Horace Martin. Canary yellow, sport 

 from Marie Masse and having all the good 

 qualities of its parent. 



Miss B. Miller. Yellow, 2 feet, late 

 September and October. This would be 



