118 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



March, 1913 



BIG PROFITS IN SMALL FRUITS 



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Don't make any definite plans for your 1913 planting until you have seen our book, which 

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DAVID KNIGHT & SON, Box 203, Sawyer, Mich. 



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1)1 



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CS 



S L ALLEN & CO 



Box 1108S Philadelphia 



E =3ill 



morning sun, thus drying and stimulating the 

 foliage early in the day and enabling it to resist 

 the disease organisms that are always favored by 

 darkness and moisture. It is rare to find a rose 

 plant, even of the susceptible varieties, in the sun 

 affected with leaf disease while similar plants 

 nearby, in forenoon shade, may be distressingly 

 injured. Thus a Crimson Rambler on a west wall 

 may be powdered with mildew and have abortive 

 blooms; while with an eastern or southern exposure, 

 flowers and foliage might be all that could reason- 

 ably be desired. 



Hybrid Teas and Hybrid Perpetuals in particular 

 should have the most open and sunny exposures 

 available. Tea and Bourbon varieties, though 

 revelling in unobstructed sunshine when it can be 

 had, will endure moderate mid-day shade with but 

 little harm. Sweetbrier, rugosa, Wichuraiana and 

 the Austrian or early yellow roses and their hybrids 

 generally possess highly resistant foliage and will 

 better endure the shade of trees, walls and buildings 

 and the proximity of mixed plantings than most 

 others. Give them liberal culture and they will 

 endure competition with other shrubs of not too 

 aggressive growth. 



The Noisettes and Prairie Climbers, with the 

 exception of Marechal Niel and its kindred, are 

 also fairly well adapted for partially shaded situa- 

 tions, though thriving best in full sun. The Hybrid 

 China class represented by the well-known variety 

 Madame Plantier, and the Scotch or spinosissima 

 roses are also quite suitable for planting in out-of- 

 the-way nooks in the dooryard and garden. 



Possibly the worst rose of all to endure shade is 

 the charming little Rosa berberidifolia Hardii, with 

 its yellow cup surrounding an orange-red "eye" 

 or central disc. Though quite hardy as regards 

 cold, its minute foliage at once collapses if called 

 on to endure moist shade. I have only been able 

 to bloom it on a sloping sand bank in the full glare 

 of the sun. 



Maryland. W. Van Fleet. 



Asters and Aster Troubles 



MY FIRST attempt at raising asters was a 

 dismal failure. I sowed the seed, as the 

 packets directed, "after all danger of frost" was 

 over, in the open ground, and in due time trans- 

 planted the seedlings to a sunny spot in the hardy 

 border. There they grew fairly well, until nearly 

 ready to blossom, when for one reason or another 

 they withered and died. Some were attacked by 

 that miserable black beetle that was created to try 

 the soul of the aster lover; others suffered from a 

 blight; the rest drooped suddenly without any 

 apparent cause. (I afterward discovered that these 

 last had the excuse of "aphis at the root".) The 

 "beautiful blooms" of which the catalogues had 

 talked and which I had so hoped for did not 

 materialize. 



I determined that asters I must and would grow, 

 and fell to studying everything I could find on 

 the subject. The next spring, on March 6th, I 

 started the new campaign. I bored holes in cigar 

 boxes, covered the holes with bits of stone or broken 

 glass, put a layer of broken flower pots and small 

 stones in the bottom of the boxes for drainage and 

 filled them with good, sifted garden soil. I watered 

 each box well, let it dry out a little, then with a 

 narrow board lightly marked off the rows and 

 scattered aster seeds, not too thickly, in them. 

 Then I sifted earth over the seeds until they were 

 covered, pressed it down gently, and put over each 



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