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The Newest Type of Dahlia — G. w. Kerr, 



Pennsyl- 



THE PEONY FLOWERED TYPE, AND ITS SPECIAL MERITS AS AN ALL ROUND DECORATIVE PLANT- 

 PLANTS RAISED FROM SEED SOWN NOW WILL BLOOM THIS YEAR— PROPAGATION AND STORING 



THERE is one thing sure! The 

 peony flowered dahlia cannot fail 

 in popularity because of its rigid 

 formality, for quite unlike the 

 old-time types, the peony flowered dahlia 

 is as informal and irregular in its makeup 

 as the most stern opponent of the old flower 

 could want. 



The flower is indeed quite different from 

 anything we have before known in this 

 family, lacking the symmetry of the show, 

 fancy and pompon types though at the 

 same time missing the grace and refined 

 form of the modern cactus varieties. The 

 peony type makes its appeal also because 

 of its general usefulness as a garden flower 

 in mass effect, being very free flowering, 

 and for its adapta- 

 bility for house dec- 

 oration when cut. 



This type origi- 

 nated in Holland, 

 and when first ex- 

 hibited in England 

 in 1905, its loose 

 and rather ragged 

 appearance made its 

 reception anything 

 but encouraging. As 

 with my brethren, 

 my first impression 

 on that occasion was 

 not favorable. But 

 I purchased a col- 

 lection and on ex- 

 hibiting them the 

 following season 

 found they were well 

 received, the ladies 

 especially becoming 

 most enthusiastic 

 over them, as a wel- 

 come relief from the 

 old formality. 



The flowers usu- 

 ally averaging six 

 inches in diameter 

 are semi-double, the 

 petals being neither 

 symmetrical nor of 

 the form of any 

 other type of dahlia ; 

 but they may be 



compared to the Chinese peony and in 

 some cases with the clematis, the inner 

 petals as a rule being twisted and curled 

 so that they often almost cover the yellow 

 stamens. Practically all the varieties pro- 

 duce their flowers on very stiff long stems, 

 held erect and clear of all foliage, while the 

 colors embrace all shades to be found in 

 the other types. 



PLANTING AND CULTIVATION 



Peony flowered dahlias may be grown 

 from divided roots, spring-struck green 

 plants, or seed. When planting the former 



in beds for bold mass effects the roots should 

 be set not less than four feet apart; and in 

 only moderately rich soil, not nearly so 

 rich as when planting the show and cactus 

 types. My experience is that they flower 

 much earlier and more freely when grown 

 in soil which has not been manured too 

 lavishly. At the same time do not assume 

 that they will succeed in very poor soil; 

 and in manuring for all dahlias I advocate 

 the use of farm-yard manure in conjunc- 

 tion with a little bone meal (a handful to 

 each root, mixing it with the soil when 

 planting) ; and if necessary — that is in the 

 event of the plants not making the desired 

 growth — to apply a little nitrate of soda. 

 This must, however, be given very carefully, 



The peony flowered dahlias show a graceful diversity of form, no two flowers looking just alike. The 

 petals are variously irregular even in the same variety 



on no account allowing the material to 

 touch the stem or foliage of the plants; 

 the safest method in applying it to growing 

 plants being in a liquid state, dissolving 

 one ounce of nitrate in one gallon of water 

 and applying after first giving a thorough 

 soaking with clear water. 



The best time to plant near Phil- 

 adelphia is during May, and I invariably 

 cut back the plants the first week in July, 

 cutting just above the lower pair of leaves, 

 because in this section the early growth 

 invariably becomes so hard and woody 

 that it is impossible to produce perfect 



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flowers; while the plants that are cut back 

 early in July produce fresh succulent strong 

 shoots which flower most profusely. This 

 cutting back is, however, apt to induce the 

 growth of many suckers from the crown 

 of the root and these must be cut out as 

 they appear, otherwise they would take so 

 much strength from the plant as to seriously 

 affect the flowering. In northern and cool 

 sections of the country it is not necessary 

 to cut back the plants. Disbudding or 

 thinning out of shoots is not required. 



To encourage healthy succulent growth 

 water liberally during dry weather, and 

 stir the top soil at least once a week with 

 the hoe or rake to assist in conserving the 

 soil moisture. If the roots are planted in 

 positions which are 

 apt to be wind- 

 swept, at least the 

 main stem should be 

 secured to a good 

 stake driven firmly 

 into the ground 



RAISING PROM SEED 



Raising from seed 

 is easy, but of course 

 all the seedlings will 

 not come true to 

 type, a certain pro- 

 portion of singles 

 showing. Yet if the 

 seed has been saved 

 from a first class col- 

 lection grown apart 

 from any other types , 

 the percentage will 

 naturally be much 

 smaller. 



Do not sow too 

 early, as the seed- 

 lings are apt to be- 

 come very spindly 

 and weak before the 

 weather is suitable 

 for planting out. I 

 prefer to plant the 

 seed from the mid- 

 dle of March to the 

 middle of April, 

 though I have had 

 splendid results by 

 sowing the seed out of doors early in May, 

 the plants from that sowing commencing 

 to bloom toward the end of August and 

 continuing until frost. 



When sown indoors the seedlings should be 

 transplanted into separate pots or boxes as 

 soon as the first pair of true leaves appear, 

 keeping them as near the glass as possible, to 

 encourage a dwarf sturdy growth. Plant in 

 the open when all danger of frost is past. 



PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS 



A choice seedling can be propagated by 

 cuttings. For this purpose the roots are 



