264 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



May, 1913 



A 





ffllf- 



f I A HE bathroom made sanitary and beautiful with Standard'' 

 ■*• fixtures — is an investment in cleanliness and comfort 

 from which the whole family draw daily dividends in pleasure 

 and in health. The Guarantee Label each piece bears, is 

 our specific assurance to you of highest sanitary quality and 

 a long life of splendid service. 



Genuine "Standard" fixtures for the Home 

 and for Schools, Office Buildings, Public 

 Institutions, etc., are identified by the 

 Green and Gold Label, with the exception 

 of one brand of baths bearing the Red and 

 Black Label, which, while of the first 

 quality of manufacture, have a slightly 

 thinner enameling, and thus meet the re- 



quirements of those who demand 'Standard" 

 quality at less expense. All 'Standard" fix- 

 tures, with care, will last a lifetime. And 

 no fixture is genuine unless it bears the 

 guarantee label. In order to avoid sub- 

 stitution of inferior fixtures, specify 'Standard" 

 goods in writing (not verbally) and make 

 sure that you get them. 



Standard «&mftaicglt>fe. Co. Dept. 37 PITTSBURGH, PA. 



New York 

 Chicago 

 Philadelphia . 

 Toronto, Can. 

 Pittsburgh 

 St. Louis 



. 35 West 31st Street 

 900 S. Michigan Ave. 

 1215 Walnut Street 

 . 59 Richmond St. E. 

 . 106 Federal Street 

 100 N. Fourth Street 



Cincinnati . . 633 Walnut Street 

 Nashville . 315 Tenth Avenue, So. 

 New Orleans, Baronne & St.JosephSts. 

 Montreal, Can. . 215 Coristine Bldg. 

 Boston . . John Hancock Bldg. 

 Louisville . 319-23 W. Main Street 

 Cleveland . 648 Huron Road, S.E. 



Hamilton, Can., 20-28 Jackson St., W. 

 London, 57-60 Holborn Viaduct, E. C. 

 Houston, Tex., Preston and Smith Sts. 

 Washington, D.C. . Southern Bldg. 

 Toledo. Ohio . 311-321 Erie Street 

 Fort Worth. Tex., Front and Jones Sts. 



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Electric Light Plants for Bungalows, Cottages, Suburban 

 Homes, Farms, Hotels, Colleges, Institutions, Etc. 



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DETROIT ENGINE WORKS 



24 FullerAve. 

 Detroit, Mich.,U.S. A.I 



around the plant with a sharp hoe. If any runners 

 start on the plants you can easily cut them off with 

 one stroke of the hoe. . 



Spray, before the blossoms form, the bed of straw- 

 berries which will fruit this year. Some of the 

 best varieties, as Wm. Belt, etc., are less resistant 

 to blight than some of the poorer sorts, and the 

 only safe way with them is to keep the foliage cov- 

 ered with bordeaux mixture (standard strength of 

 5-5-50) until almost all the blossoms are out. Most 

 of the fruiting strawberry beds will need to be 

 weeded in May. If there are not many weeds, horse 

 cultivation between the rows is not best; but leave 

 on the mulch and stir the soil around the plants 

 with a forked hoe, and the weeds will come out 

 easily in the moist soil. After weeding, if sufficient 

 mulch was not put on during the winter, add more. 

 Lawn clippings make an ideal mulch. Coal ashes, 

 and such material as will retain moisture and do 

 not contain weed seeds, are better than nothing. 

 Heavy mulching around the plants, taking care not 

 to smother them will keep down weeds, keep the 

 berries clean, and largely increase the crop. 



Do not restrict your fruit garden to small fruits 

 only; have some trees. A row of dwarf trees as a 

 border on both the west and north sides of the 

 garden will be both ornamental and useful. Some 

 garden soils are too rich, low, and moist, for stand- 

 ard trees but are ideal for dwarfs, which need rich 

 soil and high culture. Dwarf apple, pear, cherry 

 and plum trees can be planted in rows, if one pre- 

 fers, on one side of the garden, as close as six feet 

 apart. Apples on Paradise stock, or cherries on 

 Mazzard stock, even the semi-hardy fruits as 

 peaches, sweet cherries, nectarines and tender varie- 

 ties of plums, can be grown by training the branches 

 of the trees like a grape vine, on the side of an out- 

 building (where the water from the eaves does not 

 fall directly on it), and protecting it in winter with 

 straw and burlap. The trellis, or garden fence or 

 wall, may also be used in place of the building. 

 Plant early in May (in Central and Southern New 

 York), while the trees are in the dormant stage. 

 That is also a good time to do whatever pruning 

 and spraying you neglected doing in April or 

 March. Spray with lime-sulphur wash for scale 

 diseases and fungi While trees are dormant, but first 

 attend to the pruning. 



Bush, vine, and cane fruits, I plant either the last 

 of April or the first of May up to the time of leafing 

 cut. Raspberries should be planted before the 



A formerly sour, non-productive soil sweetened 

 by lime and ready for alfalfa 



suckers from the roots start or else you might wait 

 until the last of May or first of June, and transplant 

 the green sucker plants. For early transplanting 

 of raspberries and blackberries, dig the last year's 

 growth between the rows, shorten the canes to 

 about six or eight inches, leave on a few inches of 

 root, and plant in good garden soil. Plant red 

 and yellow sucker varieties of raspberries in rows 

 eight feet apart and black caps six feet apart. Plant 

 blackberries in rows ten feet apart. 



After cane fruits I plant currants and goose- 

 berries in rows five feet apart, and grapes in rows 

 ten feet apart. When the soil is well plowed, har- 

 rowed and furrowed, the transplanting is easily 

 done. Spread out the roots in the furrow and firm 

 the soil over them with the feet, then place a mulch 

 around the plants. 



Usually about the middle of May the weeds are 



// a problem grows in your garden write to the Readers' Service for assistance 



