Jtjlt. 191 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



323 



a re-potting process. A well scoured spade 

 is quite a factor for the soil will cling to a rusty 

 spade and thus be torn from the roots in 

 drawing the tool out of the ground. Some 

 perennials such as Bleeding-heart whose roots 

 break apart easily must be handled with 

 greater care than others such as Phlox, Iris, 

 etc. My experience is that every perennial 

 hardy in my locality can be successfully 

 moved ''out of season." 



Some interesting facts developed in the 

 course of this transplanting. Delphiniums 

 moved in summer tend to bloom again in fall. 

 Hemerocalhs moved just before the flower 

 buds come forth will have their bloom re- 

 tarded all of two weeks. This, however, has 

 proven true of all the perennials: that trans- 

 planting out of season has retarded their 

 bloom more or less though it has seldom im- 

 paired it. For such late bloomers as Bolton- 

 ias and New England Asters this would of 

 course not become apparent inasmuch as 

 these bloom up to frost anyway. [We read re- 

 cently in an English paper a note on trans- 

 planting Peonies as the flowers fade. It was 

 done with complete success. As a matter of 

 fact almost any plant is in condition for mov- 

 ing just after flowering. — Editor.] 



Root pruning a shrub several weeks before 



transplanting is a great aid to success. This 

 is done simply by thrusting a spade into the 

 ground as deep as it will go all around the 

 plant, marking off thus the bulk of soil that 

 is to be moved with the roots. A tile spade 

 is best because of its length. Also the spade 

 should be held diagonally so that all the spade 

 thrusts will tend to meet under the plant. 

 Cutting back the top somewhat likewise 

 helps. In this pruning, the gardener must 

 seek to balance the top to the lessened root 

 system. This will adapt the shrub to its 

 new condition even before it is moved and 

 will make the transplanting more in the nature 

 of re-potting. Root pruning tends to develop 

 small rootlets and root hairs, the very thing 

 the shrub will need to establish itself in its 

 new location. To make certain that enough 

 soil be moved with the roots, a box can be 

 built about the roots. The writer has found 

 this last necessary only in transplanting 

 Peonies and then circumstances required that 

 the plant be kept out of the soil for several 

 weeks. 



The hardier the plant, the more readily it 

 transplants out of season. Our native Goose 

 berry will transplant anytime and the work 

 may even be done somewhat carelessly. So 

 with the Rose that is actually hardy with 



Simplifying Garden Warfare 



us, Gruss an Teplitz, it can be moved at 

 any time though of course the transplant- 

 ing should be done with care. I have suc- 

 ceeded in moving even Elms and Bass- 

 woods with their leaves more than two- 

 thirds grown and attribute the success to 

 ground preparation, root pruning and careful 

 watering. 



Transplanting out cf season is not alone 

 confined to the garden but many natives may 

 be moved from the wild. The nature of the 

 soil and the distance the plants often need to 

 be hauled makes this kind of transplanting 

 somewhat mere difficult though it need not 

 be the less suc:essful on that account, provided 

 of course that proportionate care is exercised. 

 Wild flower^ such • as Blood-root, Violets, 

 Jack-in-the-pulpit are not hard to move, 

 even in bloom, while with shrubbery, the 

 writer has found the Native Plum the only dif- 

 ficult subject. Wild Roses are always sure 

 to grow. Choke-cherries will send forth a 

 second crop of leaves if the first should wilt. 

 Wild shrubbery needs to be cut back more 

 severely than that in the garden. Crataegus 

 and the wild Crabapple moved out of 

 season may even seem to die, yet the follow- 

 ing spring you will find most of them vigor- 

 ously sending forth their buds. 



F. F. ROCKWELL 



Pennsylvania 



The sturdy potato bug, 

 type of the chewing insect 

 that can be attacked by a 

 stomach poison 



to itself comes through 

 without having one or 

 jured, if not practically 

 insect pest or disease- 

 same lot of pests in two 



WHY THE BUGS GET AWAY WITH IT 



The fact that so little is usually done to 

 prepare in advance for the impending battle 

 with the bugs can not be put down wholly to 

 mere indifference. Rather it is a general state 

 of mental confusion as to just what can be 

 done, to make ready for the attack. Every 

 gardener knows that there are some dozens of 

 bugs, worms, and fungi which may possibly 

 wage war on his carefully nurtured plants be- 

 fore the season is over. He knows that they 

 are of all kinds and descriptions with long 

 scientific names that make them appear at 

 first sight, proof against anything less than a 

 gatling gun; and he does not feel that he can go 

 to the trouble and expense of fortifying him- 

 self against the whole horde. So he decides to 



The boring or burrowing pest is more elusive. Prevention 

 against attack is the better course 



wait until some particular thing puts in an ap- 

 pearance, and then try against it whatever his 

 most experienced garden friends may recom- 

 mend. 



What he does not know, in the majority of 

 cases, is that this apparently very complex 

 army of invasion can be treated as consisting of 

 a very few groups or classes, the individual 

 members of each of which can all be dealt 

 with in much the same way. 



This fact, once it is thoroughly grasped, sim- 

 plifies the whole problem of garden warfare 

 immensely. It means that the gardener has but 

 five or six lines of attack to prepare himself 

 against, instead of thirty or forty. Even the 

 Latin names, so dear to the heart of the experi- 

 ment station bulletinist, may be dispensed with 

 in considering ways and means of arming 

 for defense. Even the beginner, who has 

 had a little practical experience, so that he 

 can tell a potato bug from a cabbage maggot, 

 and a melon louse from a cut-worm, will be 

 able, if he goes at the problem in this way, 

 to determine almost at once the nature of the 

 particular thing he has to fight, and what to use 

 against it. 



The problem of "remedies" is almost as 

 complicated and confused as that of enemies. 

 Reliable manufacturers give a description-" of 

 contents, and such goods are put up in a 

 " ready-to-use" form which saves much labor 

 in the garden. By all means use them. To get 

 at the "patent insides," however, giving the 

 chief or active ingredients instead of manu- 

 facturers' trade names, quickly reduces the 

 problem of selection to its least common de- 



HOW TO GET DOWN TO THE LEAST COMMON DENOMINATORS IN THE CONTROL OF INSECTS AND DISEASES 



THERE is no 

 place for the 

 pacifist in the 

 war garden. 

 The "conscientious 

 objector" whatever 

 moral ground he 

 may take against 

 war, in his own veg- 

 etable patch must 

 shoot to kill or go 

 hungry. No treat- 

 ing with the enemy 

 is possible here; you 

 must get him, and 

 get him quick, or he 

 will get you by the 

 starvation process. 

 It's a fight to the 

 finish. 



Hardly one gar- 

 den in ten that left 

 the average season 

 more crops badly in- 

 destroyed, by some 

 -and never just the 

 successive years. 



All sucking pests (lice and scale) must be smothered by a 

 contact spray of oily or tobacco preparations 



nominators, just as grouping the many insects 

 and diseases simplifies the problem of attack. 



ONLY FOUR TYPES OF INSECT ENEMIES 



Let us then begin at the beginning — even if 

 it means repeating a few things you alreadv 

 know — and state the problem and the remedy, 

 so far as one is available, in the simplest pos- 

 sible terms. 



Insects, on the whole, can be controlled more 

 successfully than fungus diseases. And yet 

 in the home garden they are much more likely 

 to cause damage. Diseases are more likely 

 to prove serious where the same crop is grown 

 over large areas than they are in the small 

 garden. Insects, on the other hand, seem 

 usually to be able to locate the single row of a 

 certain crop in the home garden as quickly 

 as they do the field of several acres, and do 

 comparatively more damage there because the 

 gardener is not prepared to fight them, and the 

 grower is. How is the small gardener to prepare 

 himself against their attacks? 



First of all he must learn to distinguish be- 

 tween the various types of intruders — what 

 their past, present, pluperfect or maiden latin 

 names may be matter little. Here is what he 

 can usually tell about them himself, with his 

 own eyes, after a few minutes' observation or 

 search. They either 



Eat the foliage, or fruit, or stems of the 



