168 



E. C. ANDREWS. 



The observations made during this storm suggested that 

 the great storm produced the main beach features ; that 

 any class of wave action, if maintained unaltered for a 

 definite period, would produce a smooth cuspless beach of 

 certain slope, and that the cusp was a temporal feature 

 imposed upon the beach while the waves of the changing 

 conditions were seeking to establish a profile adjusted to 

 their own strength. 



During the period from October 1909 to August 1910 the 

 beach assumed various irregular forms. 



August 1910. — A heavy storm produced a wide beach of 

 even and gentle slope. The beach was widened at the 

 expense of the sand dunes in which a small cliff was formed. 

 The writer only saw the effects of the storm some con- 

 siderable time after its occurrence. 



Pig. 4 — General appearance of beach shortly after dorm of July 1912. 



1011, July 22nd. — Waves produced by a southerly gale 

 commenced to cut away the remnants of the 1910 storm- 

 beach existing as small ledges under the cliff formed in 

 1910 in the sand dunes. The erosion formed deep scallops 

 or cusps in the thin strip of the old high beach of 1910. 

 The widths as measured from cusp to cusp in succession 

 were 33, 33, 33, 33, 33, 34, 33 paces. The scallop troughs 

 were excavated as much as three feet below the old beach 

 remnants. 



