172 E. C. ANDREWS. 



along beach about 100 yards a minute from north to south. 

 Numerous short cross waves formed one roller. Absence 

 of wave pulses marked. 



About January 18th a southerly gale (35 miles an hour). 

 Half tide. As tide rose the breaking waves broke up into 

 short oblique waves and ran up and along the beach in a 

 north west direction. Waves appeared to lack definite 

 pulsating movement and were driven one after the other 

 along the beach before the wind. Bench cut nine inches 

 below upper beach. 



January 21st. — " Black Nor'Easter." Rollers approach- 

 ing breaking line seen to be formed of short cross waves 

 arranged approximately en echelon. This caused by heavy 

 wind. Cusps speedily cleared from beach. Ledge cut at 

 upper limit of waves in landward portion of beach, ledge 

 front receding up beach as tide rose. Waves travelled 

 from north to south along beach with great velocity. 



January 22nd. — Strong wind from south east. Cliff 18 

 inches high all along beach at high water mark. Erosion 

 profile above and below the small sand cliff, aggradation 

 profile near low water mark. Waves travelled with great 

 velocity along-shore from north to south. 



January 23rd. — South-east wind. No cusps. Beach of 

 accumulation. Small step or cliff cut by waves during 

 previous day partly buried. 



January 24th. — Small cusps near high water mark. Step 

 or cliff cut by waves during January 22nd almost buried by 

 accumulative action of waves. 



January 20th. — Heavy sea subsided. Wind negligible. 

 Abundance of cusps developed. Widths of set of successive 

 cusps: — 15, 15, 17, 16, 16, 15, 15 paces. 



January 30th. — Strong southerly wind. Cusps demol- 

 ished. Lower portion of beach aggraded. Step 12 inches 



