174 E. C. ANDREWS. 



Fig. 7. — Beach profiles, July 1912, 

 ABB'CE— Storm profile. ABB' CDFH— Later beach profile. 



February 10th - 26th. — Strong wind from south-east 

 quadrant. High, wide and gently sloping beach produced 

 devoid of cusps. Heavy wind disappeared but heavy swell 

 continued. Step 30 inches in height and with indented or 

 cuspate front produced at upper limit of beach by this swell. 

 In plan this step of erosion thus produced gave the appear- 

 ance of successions of circular arcs. 1 The swell decreasing, 

 a series of beach cusps was formed possessing an average 

 width of about 35 paces, and these developed just seaward 

 of the high step of erosion. A little later another set of 

 cusps were developed lower down the beach, their widths 

 not being so great as those of the more stormy conditions, 

 and their longer axes being shifted a little to the north as 

 compared with the larger ones. A curious feature was the 

 planing off of cusp salients to form broad facets triangular 

 in plan, the bases of the triangles lying parallel to the 

 general trend of the beach and the apices pointing up the 

 beach. A little later such broad triangular facets were 

 observed to be cut up into a couple of cusps as waves and 

 winds decreased. This subdivision of cusps was observed 

 frequently on subsequent occasions (Fig. 8). 



During the excavation of the intercuspate troughs it 

 was observed that the material so excavated was carried 

 down the beach by the backwash and piled under the water 



1 Had a step been cut out by the waves associated with a heavy along- 

 shore wind it would have had a fairly smooth front, but being made by 

 a heavy swell (pulse) it assumed a strongly notched or cuspate front. 



