176 E. C. ANDREWS. 



after the repeated formation of cusps of various sizes and 

 patterns. The landward limit of this beach formed a crest 

 higher than the general level of the storm beach upon 

 which it had been superimposed. Gradually a linear series 

 of depressions were thus formed between the cuspate step 

 at the back and the new beach crest in front. Winds and 

 waves increasing, these depressions were converted into 

 waterholes at high tide. The waterholes were approxi- 

 mately cuspate in plan and the water from them returned 

 to the bay in such a manner as to cut up the newer beach 

 into cusps. In a few days these depressions had become 

 silted up and a beach of irregular profile resulted. With 

 rising winds this beach crest was demolished and a flatter 

 profile formed (3/3/ 12). Thence until July 1912, the beach- 

 forms were not nearly so instructive. 



July 13th. — Afternoon. Mild weather. During evening 

 wind changed to a half gale from the S.S.E. Moderately 

 large cusps formed on a soft beach. Waves appeared to 

 have but slight "fetch." 



July 14th. — Gale from S. to S.S.E. Maximum velocity 

 51 miles an hour. Velocity up to 70 miles an hour in other 

 neighbouring localities. Cusps produced about 25 paces 

 in width. Waves still apparently of slight "fetch." Well 

 defined cusps about 4 p.m. High tide about 8 p.m. About 

 6 p.m. the waves began suddenly to advance beyond the 

 limits of the beach formed by waves of normal weather 

 conditions. Well marked cusps however still produced at 

 upper limit of beach. The furrows were those of erosion. 

 Strong grooves also were formed whose general arrange- 

 ment sympathised with the main outlines of the enclosing 

 cusps. Such deep grooves imposed upon the backwash a 

 plunging motion or succession of short steep waves. 



July 15th. — Wind locally off-shore, but tremendous storm 

 evidently blowing on-shore at some distance out to sea. 



