180 E. C. ANDREWS. 



September 13th. — Oily water in bay. No waves. Low 

 tide. Sooth, hard, and wide beach devoid of cusps. Low 

 ledge of sand formed under water near low water mark. 

 This in plan formed line parallel to main sweep of beach, 

 that is, it was not indented or cuspate. Pulses from this 

 breaking point sent out broad undulations to bay and 

 advanced up the beach to form numerous evenly-spaced 

 interfering wavelets, which in plan at the wave front gave 

 appearance of overlapping as observed on dates August 10th 

 to 11th (and other dates also). These small forms of cuspate 

 plan formed sets which again interfered at regular intervals. 



September 14th and 15th. — Similar features to those 

 observed on September 13th. Westerly (offshore) gale 

 raging. 



September 20th. — Heavy gale at sea. Great swell form- 

 ing lines of breakers for 1,000 yards from shore line. Waves 

 15 - 20 feet high. Beach formed 175 feet wide. Cusps of 

 widths 54, 64, 54 paces. Later, cusps gone, broad, smooth 

 and elevated beach. Sand cliffs of storm in July indented 

 to form large cuspate forms at base. 



September 21st. — Waves decreasing in height. Beach 

 cut down three feet near breaking line. Cusps formed in 

 storm beach (of September 20th). Successive widths of 

 cusps: — 



54, 50, 59, 59, 54, 50, 58, 70 paces 



70, 64, 64, 60, 54, 50, 49, 51, 49, 50, 53, 57, 54 paces. 



Later, scallop heads each divided into two cusps. Cliff 

 of erosion forming. Rollers travelling alongshore from N. 

 to S. at average rate of one mile in from 12 to 15 minutes. 



September 22nd. — Waves much reduced in size. Cusp 

 axes shifted slightly. Lower portion of beach seaward of 

 cusps of 21st September now cut up into cusps only possess- 

 ing an average width of 25 paces. Waves travelling 



