128 



The Garden Magazine, April, 1920 



smaller number. I am inclined to think that either the Ailanthus or 

 the Catalpa would serve us better than the Horsechestnut, at least 

 till the worm is driven out. Some of our trees grow in a remarkable 

 way. A Soft .Maple in a few feet from my window, standing between 

 the sidewalk and the asphalt pavement, is perfectly vigorous. — John 

 W. Chambhrlin, Buffalo, N. ) . 



Quality 



in 



Corn 



MR. KRUHM'S arti 

 Garden Magazine 



been 



icle in the January 

 e very much interests 

 me, as it also must interest all who read it. 

 I am one of the pioneers of the seed trade; have 

 actively engaged for Co years and have a modest garden on Cape 



Cod where I annually experiment with various sorts of fruit and 

 vegetables. I tried several sorts of the larger type of golden Corn last 

 season and I quite agree that none of them had table quality equal to 

 Golden Bantam. I very much wish to try Golden Evergreen after 

 reading what has been said. For several years past I have made a 

 careful study of Tomatoes, and found Bonny Best to be the most 

 desirable. Our soil on the Cape is rather light, but this Tomato 

 flourishes there. As is said, it is also my experience that it is less acid, 

 than other good varieties and I am safe in eating all I want of it which 1 

 could not comfortably do with some other sorts. I also discarded Old 

 Homestead Bean for the lack of quality mentioned in this note referred 

 to, and will try Egg Harbor Pole. — John Fottler. 



"Come with me, then, behind the scenes, where we are concerned only with the joys of plant increase and rejuvenation" 



The Reminder is to "suggest" what may be done during the next few weeks. Details of 

 how to do each item are given in the current or the back issues of The Garden Magazine — it 

 is manifestly impossible to give all the details of all the work in any one issue of a magazine. 

 References to back numbers may be looked up in the index to each completed volume (sent 

 gratis on request), and the Service Department will also be glad to cite references to any spe- 

 cial topic if asked by mail. 



When referring to the time for 1 out-door work of any sort New York City at sea level in a nor- 

 mal season is taken as standard; but at best dates can only be approximate. Roughly, the sea- 

 son advances northward fifteen miles a day. Thus Albany, which is one hundred and fifty 

 miles from New York, would be about ten days later, and Philadelphia, which is ninety miles 

 southwest, about a week earlier. Also allow four days for each degree of latitude, for 

 each five degrees of longitude, and for each four hundred feet of altitude. 



APRIL— THE MONTH OF RAPID-FIRE ACTION 



EVER let vigilance relax with regard to a sudden cold snap, 

 for frost is likely to occur after even a warm and balmy day, 

 right up to the end of the month. If you have delayed order- 

 ing seeds as late as this do not accept whatevera corner grocery 

 stock may offer as substitute. Cheap seeds or seeds from any 

 source other than a standard seed house are the most expensive 

 things in the world (although they may represent but a small 

 outlay in money) for they mean a year's production lost, all of 

 the time put into gardening thrown away, all of the energy em- 

 ployed wasted, and like as not your gardening morale completely 

 routed. Avoid them like a plague! 



General 



Pull or cut weeds out of the lawn whenever you see them, in passing. 



Fill the holes thus made with soil, sift on grass seed, and tramp 



it down. 

 Mow the lawn as soon as its growth will be reached by the blades of 



the machine, and mow frequently but never cut extremely close. 



This will induce strong root growth of the grass and that density 



which alone makes a perfect surface. 

 Finish manuring and spading up borders in readiness for Pansies and 



material of this sort which may be going in. 



Greenhouse and Frames 



Everything requires more water and ventilation and all material that 



is to go out of the greenhouse, whether out of doors or into the 



dwelling, must gradually be hardened for the change. 

 Shift well rooted plants into larger pots as fast as they need it, and repot 



Hydrangeas and such material if conditions demand, this month. 

 Plant Carnations in the field the end of the month, for carrying over 



until next fall. 

 Plant out all clumps of perennials that have been forced, giving them 



an obscure place where they may pick up for two seasons at least. 

 Plant out spent bulbs where these may also have time to recuperate. 

 Pot all seedlings as fast as they are ready and keep growing without a 



setback. 

 Prune weak wood out of fruits and start late trees into growth now. 

 Melons, Cucumbers and Tomatoes for under-glass summer crops 



should be started now. Use any preferred Tomato, but choose 



English forcing Melons and Cucumbers. 



Flower Garden 



Start tender annuals in coldframes. 



Sow Sweet Peas at the earliest possible moment, as they cannot stand 

 hot weather. Set out those that were started indoors. 



Set out Dahlias as soon as the ground is drained out. 



Uncover Roses and look carefully for scale. Prune them, leaving three 



eyes of last years' wood on Hybrids but taking out only weak 



wood and reducing the rest one-third on the Teas. 

 Do all planting this month. Shift perennials that you are to transplant 



as early as possible. 

 Look over all shrubs and trees and make sure there is no scale, or spray 



for it if there is. Often a single branch will be covered when the 



rest of the shrub has as yet escaped. 

 Prune shrubs that flower on this season's growth, now; prune all other 



and early flowering shrubs after they have bloomed. 

 Remove protective material from Rhododendrons, etc., on a dark 



day. 

 Fill gaps in hedges now, if winter has killed plants or branches here 



and there. 

 Trees newly planted that sway badly in the wind should be staked until 



they take hold, and also until they develop enough trunk to resist 



for themselves. 

 Rake up among perennials as soon as the foliage can be distinguished. 

 Water all newly set out material often if the ground seems dry and 



there is much wind, for the latter robs the soil rapidly. 



Vegetable Garden 



Asparagus, Rhubarb and Spinach (fall-sown) should be uncovered and 



the top-soil of the beds stirred. 

 According to the character of the season and the development of the 



leaves on native material, plant the seeds, beginning with the 



hardiest vegetables and progressing as the season progresses. 

 First plantings will be Radishes, Beets, Parsnips, Onions, Spinach, 



Peas, Lettuce, Cabbage, Salsify, Carrots, Turnips, and Kohlrabi. 



Fruits 



Finish all grafting within a week after the buds of the fruit trees swell. 

 Plant strawberries at once for starting new beds. Rake mulch from 



established beds or open it above the rows of plants to let them 



come through. 

 Examine Peaches to six inches below the surface of the soil for borers. 



Gum or sawdust reveal them. Clean these away, open the holes 



with a sharp knife enough to admit a flexible wire and run this in 



as far as it will go to kill the grubs. Examine again in about a 



week for later developed attacks. 

 Watch Currants and Gooseberries as the new leaves unfold, especially 



near the ground, for the worms, and spray at once they appear, 



wetting the under side of the leaves. 

 Watch for tiny steel-blue beetles on Grapes as their leaves open. Pick 



them off or knock into a pan of kerosene. 



