12 A JOURNEY ON FOOT TO THE PATANI FRONTIER. 
mountains where the river takes its rise. The houses are on the 
left bank ; there are well-grown cocoanut trees near them, a fact 
which shows that this little settlement is of much older date than 
Cue Kartm’s villages. Mar Danart invited me to his house, and 
here, after a bath in the river, we proceeded to make ourselves com- 
fortable. There was a herd of twenty or thirty head of cattle in the 
kampong, which their owners, Patani Malays, were taking to Ijuk 
and thence to Larut. Large fires were kept burning under the 
cocoanut trees all night to keep away tigers. 
March 27th. After an early breakfast we started for Ijuk. The 
herdsmen and their cattle had preceded us, and my companions 
vowed that the beasts were stolen, or so much expedition would not 
be used in driving them off, but I believe that they took away the 
characters of the Patanis quite unnecessarily. The day’s march 
was entirely through forest, and there was little in it to chronicle 
except the streams crossed. On leaving Ulu Salama we struck the 
Sungei Nur, which, owing to its windings, we had to cross three 
times. Further on we reached another stream, the Sungei Brah, 
which runs into the Sungei Manekwang. The country is undula- 
ting and abounds in these little mountain streams which are feeders 
of the Salama and, therefore, more remotely, of the Krian. Some- 
times the path disappeared and then we followed the bed of the 
stream. Walking in the cool water was a welcome change, except 
when the bottom was stony, on which occasions the men exhausted 
heir most scathing invective on Perak roads and their authors. 
We halted for some time at an open glade on the Sungei Brah, 
which seemed to be a recognised resting place for travellers. 
Fragments of broken bottles gave unmistakeable proof of a previ- 
ous visit of an European. They were perhaps relics of the Police 
expedition after Ismartz, undertaken two or three months before. 
Leaving the Sungei Brah we crossed a low range of hills which is 
the watershed between the Salama and Ijuk rivers. The Sungei 
Lepong and the Sungei Trah, both tributaries of the Tjuk, were 
successively reached, and eventually, after crossing some open fields, 
the Ijuk itself. Wading through it we soon reached the house of 
Wan Axsuspakar, the headman of the Ijuk valley. By this time 
it was 4 p.m, and as we had been walking since 7.30 a.M., and it 
was raining hard, we were not sorry to take possession af Wan 
