A JOURNEY ON FOOT TO THE PATANI FRONTIER. 17 
becomes Mar; Osman is shortened to Swan; and SvuLerman is 
barely recognisable in Leman and sometimes Man. The only 
others of my companions, whom I need mention by name, are 
_ Penghulu Satam, a sturdy little Patani Malay, who was headman 
of a village in the Krian district; Dewan, a Perak Malay, who had 
joined me at Kwala Kangsa some months before; and Mustray, 
valet, cook and cashier,a Muhammadan of Indian descent, who 
lost a hand by some gun-accident, and yet managed to get on as 
well as most men do with two. The temperature at Teratah Da- 
gong, the site of our camp at the top of the pass, was pleasantly 
cool, and the consoling thought that our next halt would be on the 
banks of the Perak river was conducive to sound slumber, even 
under less comfortable conditions. 
March 29th. Soon after seven o'clock a.m. we were breasting 
the steep ascent which leads to the top of Bukit Kubu. Then 
began the descent on the eastern side of the range, which was easy 
work compared with yesterday’sclimb. Lofty trees obstructed the 
view on all sides, and, though we were travelling over high ground, 
not a glimpse of the surrounding country could be seen. About 
midday we reached the foot of the range, and emerging from the 
forest found ourselves at a small kampong called Batu Berdinding 
inhabited by Patani peasants. The headmen of this and two other 
villages were waiting here to receive me, notice having been sent 
to them from Ijuk. While! was waiting for some of the men who 
had lagged behind, the natives of the place related the circum- 
stances under which the Chief, called Sri Adika Raja, one of the 
eight Perak Chiefs of the second rank, had met his death at this vil- 
lage two months before. I was shown the house in which he was sit- 
ting when shot by Coz Karim’s men. It had been left uninhabited 
ever since, for the Malays are very superstitious and often believe 
a place where a man has met a violent death to be haunted by his 
spirit. The Sri Adika Raja was in the neighbourhood of Kwala 
Kangsa when the headquarters of the Indian column first reached 
that place in December, 1875. In company with the Orang Kaya 
Besar, one of the four Chiefs of the first rank, he fled up the river 
imm ediately on the arrival of the troops, and remained in hiding in 
Ulu Perak until the arrival of Sultan Ismatt in that part of the 
