THE SIAMESE MALAY STATES. 63 



able to direct our course through the winding- channels some- 

 times very narrow and between high rocks. It was intricate 

 navigation in the dark but we ^ot safely back to Kuah about 8.0. 

 We then landed and had dinner in a house built by WAN 

 Mat after which we left with a Kedah pilot kindly lent by the 

 Raja Muda. 



Friday, 21st December. — Reached Penang about 7.0 A. M. 



General Remarks. 



The best season to visit these States is undoubtedly Decem- 

 ber-January when delightful weather may be counted on. It is 

 the dry season and a cool breeze blows continuously off the land. 

 The Seabird is not fit for such a trip. The Damning Rid though 

 not much bigger is a better sea boat. When I describe the sea 

 as " rough " I mean for a launch. In the Sea Belle the trip at 

 this time of year would be a delightful one, Pung-a especially 

 being worth a visit for its lovely scenery. 



One thing that struck us was that during all the while we 

 were at sea — always in sight of land — we hardly saw a junk, 

 boat or sign of population. In Trang and to the Northward the 

 Malays or Samsams resemble the Siamese. They do not speak 

 Malay but are said to be Mohamedans. Mr. MAXWELL'S remark 

 in 1889 that the Siamese Government neither makes nor main- 

 tains roads is true now. Neither has the telegraph made any 

 progress since that time. Mr. MAXWELL remarks further that 

 these States all suffer from being regarded in Bangkok not as 

 provinces to be developed but as mere sources of revenue to be 

 spent at the capital. Sixty per cent, of the revenue still goes to 

 Bangkok. There is evidently now a desire on the part of the 

 Government at Bangkok to improve the local administration of 

 these Western provinces and no doubt many reforms have been 

 carried out in the last few years. At Trang there were many 

 signs of progress visible. This I attribute to Mr. KHAW SlM 

 Bee's energy and good administration. 



Tongkah is a land of promise. A large number of schemes 

 are going to be carried out but these promises evoke a smile 

 from those who have been used to the administration of the 

 palace. The country is evidently full of tin but the Government 

 does nothing to improve the roads or open up the place. The 



