126 DYEING. 



For Violet (9) commence with the light red dye (mala), as 

 before, but then steep the silk in fermented cocoanut milk (ayi 

 nya 'dah jadi ragi) keeping the silk in it only just long enough 

 to turn it of the requisite tinge, as if not watched, and allowed 

 to remain too long, it will turn a rusty black. 



Purple (10) may be obtained either from an infusion of 

 tengar bark or by combination of the " mala" (light red) dyeing 

 process with indigo ; Dark purple from the sera kayu (Sel. 

 kennndang), a tree with small red edible fruits, with alum and 

 asam gelugor as usual. White (11) is obtained by steeping the 

 silk in a decoction of (burnt) durian skin. Light black or 

 Black (12) is obtained from an infusion of tengar bark or by 

 repeated steepings in indigo ; or by burying in the soil of the 

 gurah tree,* yarn already dyed yellow-green (4) or dark pur- 

 ple (10). Dark black (13) by still further repeated dyeing with 

 indigo or fermented coconut milk; Grey (14, 15) by dipping in 

 indigo; Brown (16, 17) by dyeing with "mundu"f bark, alum 

 and tamarinds being added as required ; Brown (18) by dyeing 

 with " mundu " bark only ; and Brown (19) by adding indigo to 

 the above. 



I may add that the most generally favourite colour is red 

 after which come yellow and a kind of delicate rose-colour 

 (or madder), which is called kembang petang in Selangor 

 (kemte petfe in Kelantan and Patani). Darker and soberer tints 

 are in vogue for the older folks, and the sarong-patterns worn 

 by the women have smaller checks and are more tasteful than 

 those worn by the men. 



In Raman (an inland province of Patani), both Blue and 

 Black dyes are obtained from either the wild or cultivated 

 variety of indigo (tarung utae or tarung kapon) the yarn being 

 steeped in an infusion coloured by the young shoots until the 

 requisite tint is obtained. The black is therefore merely the 

 deepest shade of blue obtainable. Red is obtained from Brazil- 

 wood or sepang mixed with an equal proportion of chips of the 



* The yarn after dyeing is buried in soil taken from underneath 

 the gurah tree, whose leaves are said to turn the soil underneath it 

 black. The "gurah" tree is probably "Exccecaria agallocha," 

 (H. N. R. )in which case it is the same as the guring (?). 



t Garcinia dvlris. — H. N. E. 



Jonr. Straits Branch' 



