56 EXPEDITION INTO INTERIOR OF SUMATRA, 
it an icy current of air. It would be impossible to imagine 
a more picturesque bit of water scenery than this natural 
basin. As long as the Cees lasted we made notes, or 
arranged the collections made d uring the day. 
The approach of night for ‘ced us to give up our 
work, and we placed our chairs at the water's edge 
euveloping ourselves in fragrant Havana smoke. The sub- 
dued eifects of twilight are unfortunately unknown in these 
countries. Itis as though the sun were in haste to hide 
himself, and in this enchanting spot the night fell suddenly 
and covered all our landscape with its black veil. 
Then almost at once we heard the leader of the insect 
orchestra take up his office, and with a diabolic note give 
the signal to begin. The light of phosphorescent cock- 
chafers shine fantastically amidst the trees, bats flit like 
shadows around our resting-place. 
‘The koulis, who have lighted a second fire on the other 
side of the hut, are squatting round it, intercepting the light, 
which thus falis only ona portion of the river and hardly 
reaches the distorted tree-roots which a land-slip has exposed 
on the opposite side. 
Our rice will soon be re pat ; our old cook is giving it 
his whole attention. Clad only in a pair of trousers, he is 
sitting cross-legged and is with imperturbable oravity stir- 
ring ais rice Sa a long spoon. His whole figure is 
stiff, severe, and rigid, as though it were carved in 
wood. Of the lle an seated between us and the fire, we can 
only distinguish the outlines, whilst every feature of their 
companions who are Si itting opposite to us 18 vigourously 
brouel ht out by the red eleais, produced by the hght of the 
flaming wood upon their browned faces and bodies. And 
while they rest themselves, smokine their cigaret ttes, they 
listen attentively to one of their number who 1s telling the 
history of some previous excursion. Doubtless, nowhere , does 
nature offer more splendid spectacles than in these distant 
forests. There is no monotony , on the contrary, an infinite 
variety. Sometimes the surroundings inspire us with calm, 
at other times we are awed by the stern force with which na- 
ture works out her ends. The aspect of water rushing down- 
ward from the mountains with ever increasing inpetuosity, 
