April, 1912 
severe Winters. The flowers of the Ram- 
blers, while comparatively small, are borne 
in huge clusters or trusses, which give a most 
striking effect. Some of the newer climbers, 
however, such as Dr. Van Fleet and Climbing 
American Beauty, bear flowers several inches 
across and on long stems, as suitable for cut- 
ting as the garden sorts. Then there are the 
climbing semi-doubles and singles, in numer- 
ous shades and showing the beautiful golden 
stamens, which many gardeners prefer to 
the double sorts; certainly they are among 
the most graceful of Roses. While the 
flowers of the hardy climbers are borne 
freely, as a rule there is but one flowering 
period, though some of the newer sorts show 
the ever-blooming tendency. It is probably 
only a question of time until this will be bred 
in them to a much greater extent. As they 
are now, however, they are worthy a place 
somewhere around the home of every lover 
of flowers, and that means everywhere. 
What varieties will give the greatest satis- 
faction for different purposes and periods? 
It will be readily seen from the foregoing that this de- 
pends entirely upon circumstances. If you want a Rose 
garden that will furnish good flowers for cutting, as well as 
being ornaments, but want it so ironclad that you will 
have to give it the least possible care, use the Hardy 
Perpetuals. If, on the other hand, you are willing to 
look out for your plants and attend to giving them pro- 
tection in the late Fall, then 
you can have the most beau- 
tiful of Roses nearly all 
Summer long, and most of 
your choices will be from 
the Hybrid Teas. It may 
be, however, that you do 
not want or cannot have a 
Rose garden at all—just 
Roses! Then you should 
go to the new Hardy 
Climbers, where you will 
find sorts for both cutting 
and decorative utility, 
which will thrive with the 
least care and under ad- 
verse conditions. Think the situation over carefully before 
you buy, on the strength of the suggestions offered here. 
PLANNING THE ROSE GARDEN 
The Rose garden should be carefully planned. As in 
making selections, so also in laying out the garden—you 
should have a definite purpose to begin with. Are your 
Roses to be used for cut flowers only, or to be enjoyed as 
they grow, with the Rose garden itself a thing of beauty in 
the landscape? Again, it may be desirable to use them 
simply to decorate the house with, as a relief to a bare wall, 
a covering for a pillar or trellis, or some spot yet uncovered. 
The accompanying Rose garden plan may prove of service. 
THE LOCATION 
The making of the garden is one of the most important 
factors in success with Roses. The location for it should be, 
if possible, upon high ground, where the air currents pass 
freely. This will afford natural protection against both 
frost and mildew. It should be, if possible, sheltered by a 
building, shed, or wall from the cold northwest winds, 
which do more harm than the cold itself. It should not be 
in the shade, and above all, not near the bases of large trees, 
whose thieving roots cannot be kept out of the rich Rose 
soil. With these rules stated, comes the matter of soil. 
A-A- 
FALL PRUNING 
B-B- SPRING PRUN/NG 
C-C- EARTH PROTECTION 
FOR WINTER 
D-D- GROUND LEVEL 
Diagram of pruning 
AMERICAN HOMES AND GARDENS 
A terrace overhung with fragrant Dorothy Perkins Roses 
THE SOIL 
The soil should be heavy, a ‘“‘clay loam” if possible— 
especially is this true for the garden bush varieties. Some 
of the climbers will do well on a light sandy soil, but do not 
prefer it. A light soil may be made suitable by the addition 
of heavy loam or of muck. Two years ago I set out a large 
bed of Hybrid Perpetuals and Hybrid Teas in soil that 
3. 
La Detroit, strong, hardy and ever-blooming 
