October, 1912 
closer together than three feet, while climbing Roses and 
the Rugosa varieties should not be placed less than four feet 
apart. In connection with the subject of Rose growing, the 
garden-beginner should be reminded of the fact that old 
Rose plants that have held their place for some years in the 
garden should be lifted every five or six years, during Octo- 
ber, for the purpose of enabling the garden-maker to en- 
rich the soil in which they are to be re-set. 
GARDEN LABELS 
T often happens, especially with the garden beginner, that 
he neglects the very important matter of providing labels 
to identify the spots in his garden where he has been setting 
out bulbs and roots at Fall planting time. One may have 
an excellent memory, but when Winter comes along to 
change the aspect of things he will find that by Springtime 
there is something of confusion in his mind as to where this 
plant or that was placed. All this will interfere seriously 
with his Spring planting work or with his preparations for 
it; therefore it will be well for every garden-maker, experi- 
enced or not, to take thought of marking the location of the 
plants he sets out this Fall by means of labels. 
I= dips dlp 4b = ib beds b= 4h 4 edb ab ab dabei = ds absab = a bed eee ab sabe albsd es aba sabe dbs aIbcaipeapsales ap sale abeaibsabsdibsdlbe ded bsdesalbsaibed sapsd 
BULBS FOR FALL PLANTING 
(Continued from page 363) 
EVEAEVEV=7 ETE tbs aab dibs db sabe db=db= dba bsdbedesdbsdbedbedibsdibedibsdb=qb=dibedipsdbsdibsdbsdpsdieedieedipedbsdbsdbsdiosdiesdbed bal bed] ps4] 
manure and containing a liberal quantity of pure, sharp 
white sand. When these essentials are absent, supply them 
or do not attempt the culture of Lilies. Plant preferably 
among shrubbery or hardy Perennials, giving the Lilies 
the protection of the shade both in Winter and Summer, for 
ae 
AMERICAN HOMES AND GARDENS 
369 
at this time they suffer if the sun shines directly upon the 
ground about their roots or upon the stems. Also the roots 
of the shrubs insure better drainage. Plant Lilies deep— 
not less than nine inches for the big sorts. Have the soil 
deep and mellow for at least eighteen inches and make a 
separate hole for each Bulb. Place clean, sharp sand in 
the bottom of this and on top of that a little pad of sphag- 
num moss on which to set the Bulb. Drop over the Bulb 
enough sand to cover it and fill in between any loose scales 
—though if any broken scales exist they should be care- 
fully removed and may be used to start new Bulbs by plant- 
ing in sand an inch from the surface near the main Bulb. 
If a little sulphur and charcoal is mixed with the sand and 
soil about the Lilies it will tend to ward off decay and the 
dreaded Lily disease. Plant such tall-growing Lilies as 
the Anunciation, Giganteum, Browni, Washingtonianum 
and the like in groups of half a dozen or more. The Spe- 
ciosa Lilies are excellent for bordering beds of taller sorts 
but do not show to advantage back in the beds. The little 
coral Lily (Tenuifolium) is charming for a border, but is 
not a persistent form. 
For establishing in the hardy border there is nothing 
daintier than the little Anthericums (Saint Bruno’s Lily) 
with its tiny bells so much resembling the Lilies of the 
Anunciation. The little plants do not do much the first year 
after setting and may disappear entirely the next year, only 
to appear later, and from then on will increase in size and 
beauty. ““The Lilies are ringing their bells’ seems espe- 
cially to apply to these dainty flowers, and almost one can 
believe they hear a soft, silvery peal as the wind stirs their 
fragile cups. Once planted they should not be disturbed. 
Sas. 
There are always little nooks and corners in the home garden where violets will thrive 
