AN ACCOUNT OF A JOURNEY ACROSS THE MALAY PENINSULA. 37 



After spending such an uncomfortable night, we found our- 

 selves just at the entrance to this hilly country. The river 

 was now in big flood, and the rapids were full of great boulders, 

 against which the river dashed itself. Below those rapids came 

 great silent whirlpools in the shadow of the hills, so deep that 

 our long bamboo punt poles failed to reach the bottom, and 

 our raft rotated again and again. It required all our energies 

 and wits to shoot those rapids, and often we bounced against 

 the snags and jutting boulders, coming off as a rule with but 

 slight damage to the raft, but more than once we were on the 

 eve of complete disaster, when w r e got righted almost by 

 miracle. 



We had just shot a rapid, and were taking matters easily 

 after our exertions, when our attention was suddenly at- 

 tracted by a thundering tearing noise as of some large animal 

 bursting through the narrow coppice between the hill and the 

 river. Presently a great male banteng [Bos frontalis) appear- 

 ed on the bank about fifty yards behind us, plunged into the 

 flood and made swiftly for the other side. At one time he 

 looked threateningly towards us, so we were glad to get 

 rid of the brute, but just as we were turning the next bend 

 w r e again heard the thunder of his hoofs, and he instantly 

 appeared on the bank quite opposite us. As he plunged 

 into the river the men threw their punt poles from them 

 and cowered on the raft, w r hile I hastily undid the fastenings 

 of my gun and loaded it. But by that time the bull had 

 thought better of it and had made across the river just in 

 front of us and w T as ascending the opposite bank as I took a 

 flying shot at him, but he disappeared evidently none the 

 worse. The beast, I believe, had not the slightest intention 

 of molesting us ; but the hills threw their steep sides so close 

 to the river, that he had to cross and recross to get along the 

 narrow bank that was sometimes on one side sometimes on 

 the other. 



A little after midday the rain ceased, and in a blink of sun- 

 shine that followed, we dried our matches and shortly after- 

 wards moored our raft and prepared to spend the night. We 

 made a great fire, dried our clothes and blankets, cooked the 



