30 



The Garden Magazine, September, 1921 



THE best compost for Ferns of all kinds (as a general rule) 

 consists of two parts leaf mold, one part sand, and one part 

 loam. As is natural, considering the way in which they normally 

 grow, all the Ferns now discussed have a special liking for 

 leaf mold. If the gardener cannot readily get this material 

 a very good substitute may be made by digging up a little 

 turf and scraping off the part around the roots. 



Someone has said rather aptly that the chief enemy of the 

 Fern is the deadly jardiniere. This doesn't mean, of course, 

 that there is anything inherently wrong in the jardiniere itself; 

 but, when it holds a potted Fern, it is likely to conceal the surplus 

 water which gradually rises around the roots until it drowns 

 them! No harm will be done if care be taken to prevent this 

 occurrence, and indeed Ferns may be benefited by having the 



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preference those with perfectly straight sides, and be sure that 

 there is a hole at the bottom for excess water to pass through. 



Ferns make a dense network of roots all through the soil, to 

 the very outside of the ball, for which reason it is important to 

 keep the pots themselves clean. The pots should not be filled 

 too solidly, and yet the earth should be pressed down to such 

 an extent that the water will not simply run down the sides 

 between the ball and the pot instead of passing through the soil. 

 This one little point explains one reason why Ferns sometimes 

 seem to suffer for lack of moisture, while being watered very often. 

 All Ferns abhor illuminating gas, and even a very little gas in 

 the room will kill a well established specimen. It has become 

 much easier to grow Ferns in living rooms since electricity has 

 largely replaced the gas jet. The use of oil stoves and lamps 

 does not produce a poisonous air for the plants. 

 It is almost impossible to have as much moisture 

 in the average home as Ferns need for best results, 

 which is one reason why they grow so much more 

 luxuriantly in even a small conservatory. Still, a 

 fairly satisfactory condition may be established by 

 keeping the plants packed with moss or by setting 

 them on a bench covered with ashes or pebbles rather 

 than in a saucer. If a number of kinds are to be 

 grown, a special bench where saucers are not required 

 is most desirable. Still, if this arrangement is out of 

 the question, enough moisture can usually be ob- 

 tained by keeping a pan of water on the radiator or 

 in the window. 



Ferns are exceedingly sensitive and resent being 

 brushed against, so that it is best not to set them in 

 a hallway or any other position where they will be 

 rubbed by members of the family and guests. 



DRAPING THE GREENHOUSE WALLS 



Ordinarily an objectionable eyesore the walls of this greenhouse at Wodenethe, 

 Fishkill, N. Y., are made beautiful by Sword-ferns and others, with Palms, 

 and over all the Creeping Fig, unique among warm greenhouse wall covers 



space between the pots and the jardinieres filled in with sphag- 

 num moss. 



As may be inferred from all this, good drainage is of "the ut- 

 most importance when potting up Ferns. This is easy enough 

 to provide when deep pots are used, but is somewhat difficult 

 with the low fern-dishes often seen. With them it is wisest to 

 have a layer of charcoal entirely covering the bottom. Beware 

 of fern-dishes that roll outward at the top. It is seldom that 

 they have sufficient depth to be satisfactory. Choose by 



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HAT is known as the Boston Fern came into 

 popularity some twenty years ago under the 

 name of Nephrolepis Fosteriana, having originated 

 with a Dorchester, Mass., florist whose name was 

 Foster. Its peculiar merits made it an ideal house 

 plant. Several years later a new and improved, 

 crested form, Piersoni, came into favor; this has 

 been followed by a rapid succession of other varia- 

 tions, each with peculiar merits of its own,. Among 

 the best are Roosevelt, Whitmani, Whitmani com- 

 pacta, Verona, elegantissima, Teddy Jr., Scotti, 

 Macawi, Victoria (which is a new crested form of 

 Teddy Jr.), Norwood, and Harrisi. In addition there 

 is a low growing form known as the Dwarf Boston 

 Fern. Many of these newer kinds have a tendency 

 to gradually revert to the common Boston type, but 

 all of them remain exceedingly beautiful, with their 

 finely cut, feathery foliage, for several years; and 

 after all, the natural life of a Fern is not very long. 

 It is true that occasional specimens thrive in the 

 living room window for seven or eight years but, as 

 a rule, better results are obtained by frequently in- 

 troducing a new plant. 



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HILE the kinds mentioned are the most dec- 

 orative and by far the most popular, there are 

 others of established merit which were once great 

 favorites. Possibly the Maidenhair Fern is not 

 grown as widely as formerly, and yet its delightful 

 delicacy when it is well grown appeals to everyone. The easiest 

 form to handle is Adiantum Croweanum. This is a compact 

 variety and the one most often used by florists in making up 

 designs and bouquets. It will thrive well under the conditions 

 already described, and so, for that matter, will several other 

 Maidenhair Ferns, including curvatum and hispidulum. 



It is quite different with the luxurious looking A. Farleyense. 

 As it happens, this is one of the most popular of Maidenhair 

 Ferns, but is exceedingly particular as to its requirements. If 



