WHEN TO DO WHAT YOU WANT TO DO 



SEPTEMBER— THE MONTH TO GET READY _FOR NEXT YEAR 



Herein are listed the seasonal activities for the complete garden. Details of how to do each item may 

 be found in the current. or the back issues of The Garden Magazine — it is manifestly impossible to 

 make each number of the magazine a complete manual of practise. References to back numbers may be 

 looked up in the index to each completed volume (sent gratis on request); the Service Department will also 

 be glad to cite references to any special topic if asked by mail and to send personal replies to specific ques- 

 tions; a stamped, addressed envelope being enclosed. 



When referring to the time for out-door work of any sort New York City (latitude^) at sea level in 

 a normal season is taken as standard; but at best dates can only be approximate. Roughly, the season 

 advances northward fifteen miles a day. Thus Albany, which is one hundred and fifty miles from New 

 York, would be about ten days later, and Philadelphia, which is ninety miles southwest, about a week 

 earlier. Also allow jour days for each degree_of latitude, for each five degrees of longitude, and for each 

 four hundred feet of altitude. 



(Copyright, 1921, Doubleday, Page y Co.) 



URING late summer make plans for next spring's garden; and 

 indeed during September a greal deal may be done that will 

 show results next spring. It is the ideal month for making 

 and planting the herbaceous border, particularly; for repairing 

 lawns; for starting the winter work indoors. 



Flowering Things to Plant Now 



Peonies, Iris, Phlox, in particular; and in general most herbaceous 

 plants are best shifted or planted at this time. 



Peonies to be planted as soon as the roots can be secured shortening to 

 six or seven inches any long tap-roots. Strong divisions do not 

 make as good a showing the first year after planting as do two- or 

 three-year old roots but they are ultimately superior. Good varie- 

 ties are now available at a nominal cost; there is no excuse for 

 purchasing poor things just because they are cheap. 



Iris offer a widely different range of colors and even a greater variety 

 of type and season of flowering than Peonies. Many new and 

 beautiful varieties are now offered. Get the best of such things. 



Daffodils, and other bulbs that had perforce to be lifted early, to be 

 planted before the new purchases arrive. 



Prepare plans for actual planting in October and November of shrubs, 

 trees, fruit trees; and for any changes in existing groups etc. 



Plants That Are Blooming 



Hybrid-tea Roses are now producing plenty of bloom, with color richer 

 than that of June. Unless the beds have been well fed during the 

 last two months give now manure water or some other form of 

 quick-acting plant food. 



Tall flowers such as Dahlias, Cosmos, etc. to be kept staked, and the 

 flowers cut freely as they develop. 



Anemones will be greatly benefited by liquid manure or other con- 

 centrated fertilizer when the buds show. 



Guarding Against Early Frost 



Get ready to protect such plants as Cosmos, Dahlias, etc., from early 

 frosts. Ofttimes after a single killing frost, fine weather con- 

 tinues well into October. 



Protection may be given by muslin screens, windbreaks, smudge 

 fires; or by allowing the irrigation system to run over the plants 

 overnight, etc. A little ingenuity will accomplish much. 



Remove all dead leaves and plants at sight; don't get careless because 

 the period of early frost approaches. 



Hedges etc. to be clipped for the last time, and any not attended to 

 previously to be clipped at once. Late growth from late clipping 

 makes the whole plant tender and more susceptible to winter cold. 



Storage places for such plants as Hydrangeas, Bay-trees, Oleanders, 

 etc. to be got ready. 



Lawns Old and New 



Lawns needing renovation to be topdressed with some good approved 

 fertilizer thoroughly raked with an iron rake and seed sown; bear- 

 ing in mind that the more the existing grass appears to be ruined, 

 short of actually tearing it out of the ground, the better will be the 

 results. The surface must be loose in order that the roots of the 

 young grass seed may penetrate. After seeding roll lightly in 

 both directions. 



An over-rolled or hide bound lawn can often be cured by taking 



Stil 



a digging fork and thrusting it into the turf six or eight inches, 

 and depressing it so that the turf is lifted and loosened, allowing 

 the treated area to remain in this condition for a few weeks then 

 treat or roll down. Such lifting is best done during a wet period. 

 I time to sow new lawns with every assurance of success if the work 

 is done early. 



Current Work for Next Year's Needs 



Fallen leaves to be collected and composted, as when rotted they make 

 the finest fertilizer. Start by preparing a nook where they can 

 be stored without being whipped all over the place by the wind. 



Take cuttings of all bedding plants as soon as possible. This will not 

 mar the appearance of the beds by leaving holes or bad spots if the 

 cuttings be taken at intervals. Geranium, Coleus, Heliotrope, 

 Alyssum, Ageratum, Verbena, etc., are all best raised from 

 cuttings. 



Ready to Mulch? 



More mulching must be done in the average garden if ever we are to 

 come through properly into spring. All trees and shrubberies 

 are benefited by it. While it is too soon to apply any now, yet this 

 is the time to get the manure or other material on hand. Especially 

 mulch any plants set out at any time during this year. 



Vegetables Yet to be Sown Outdoors 



Lettuce is the big possibility of September. Sow any of the heading 

 types; e. g. Big Boston, May King. In localities liable to early 

 frost have grass, straw, etc., on hand for use as protective material. 



Globe Artichoke may be sown early in the month to winter in a cold- 

 frame. (See last month's Reminder). 



Growing Crops to Tend 



Peas may be sown in many sections, using early kinds — The term 

 "early" applies to time required to mature. 



Look for cabbage worm on the late crop. This is about the last of the 

 insects for the season. Spray small plants with poison; when 

 the plants are large hand-picking is essential. 



Celery to be fed occasionally to promote rapid growth which means 

 quality — use liquid manure with a little nitrate of soda once in a 

 while. Early Celery to be blanched. 



Leeks to be given the final hilling; for large size feed freely. 



Rhubarb appearing crowded with a tendency to seed freely needs 

 resetting. Late this month dig up the old plants, cut into four 

 pieces with a spade and reset, working some fertilizer into the 

 ground at the same time. 



Tomatoes to be kept tied up and fruits picked as they keep better off 

 the vines. 



Parsley roots to be transferred from the garden to the greenhouse or 

 frame; give rich soil, and strip off the foliage when transplanting. 



Winter crops (i. e. crops intended for winter use) to be kept well cul- 

 tivated. September is usually a good growing month. 



Taking up the Potatoes 



Potatoes to be dug and stored if a suitable place is available; otherwise 

 better leave them in the ground as long as the weather is not too 

 wet. When digging do not leave the tubers exposed to the sun and 

 air all day, but only long enough to dry them thoroughly. After 

 storing pick over at intervals and remove any rotted tubers. 



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