WHEN TO DO WHAT YOU WANT TO DO 



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OCTOBER— THE MONTH OF FALL PLANTING 



Herein are listed the seasonal activities for the complete garden. Details of how to do each item may 

 be found in the current or the back issues of The Garden Magazine — it is manifestly impossible to 

 make each number of the magazine a complete manual of practice. References to back numbers may be 

 looked up in the index to each completed volume (sent gratis on request); the Service Department will also 

 be glad to cite references to any special topic if asked by mail and to send personal replies to specific ques- 

 tions; a stamped, addressed envelope being enclosed. 



When referring to the time for out-door work of any sort New York City (latitudes) at sea level in 

 a normal season is taken as standard; but at best dates can only be approximate. Roughly, the season 

 advances northward fifteen miles a day. Thus Albany, which is one hundred and fifty miles from New 

 York, would be about ten days later, and Philadelphia, which is ninety miles southwest, about a week 

 earlier. Also allow jour days for each degree of latitude, for each five degrees of longitude, and for each 

 four hundred feet of altitude. 



{Copyright, 1021 , Douhleday, Page l?S Co.) 



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'HIS is the big fall planting month; practically all hardy shrubs, 



>Wtf3 trees, and herbaceous perennials may beset out now. There 



%4i* are exceptions, however, and thin-barked trees (like orna- 



tjsjrlp? mental Peaches, Cherries, Birches), and thick-rooted ones 



(like Magnolia), etc., are as a rule better left till spring. 



Mulching material for use when the ground has frozen over to be 



collected. Mulching spells no small part of the success of fall planting. 



All spring-flowering bulbs (Hyacinths, Tulips, Crocuses, Narcissus 



Lilies, etc.) to be planted as soon as possible. 



Collect material for protecting evergreens that are not quite hardy 

 or scorch readily with the winter sun. Evergreens of symmetrical 

 form may be protected from heavy snow breakage by being tied in. 



Lawns 



Cut the grass as long as it continues to grow. It is a mistake to allow 

 it to remain during winter with the idea of it protecting the roots 

 during severe freezing weather. This old long grass dies, and is 

 no end of trouble in the spring. 



Grading for new lawns to be done as circumstances permit; but the 

 sooner the grade is established and the ground occupied with a 

 cover crop, the better. 



In many sections there is still time to get a stand of grass if the seed is 

 sown early in the month. 



Division and Resetting in the Flower Border 



Any contemplated changes in the flower beds and borders to be carried 

 out while most of the plants are dormant, or nearly so, and you 

 have time for the work. 



Peonies, Phloxes, and other perennials do not flower well if they become 

 overdense; they need breaking up and resetting every four or five 

 years, for best results. • 



The usual method of "division" is to chop the roots into four or five 

 pieces with a spade or edging knife. In the case of Phloxes, Asters, 

 Physostegia, and such like, use two digging forks placed back to 

 back, forcing the clumps apart; select the outside, or younger por- 

 tions, for replanting. 



Annuals to be cleared off as soon as frost cuts them down. 



Vegetables for Next Year's Crops 



Sow Winter Spinach and Onions to remain in the ground over winter. 

 Protect by covering with salt hay when cold weather comes. 



Roots of Chicory (French Endive) to be lifted for early forcing. Cut 

 off foliage just above the crown, and pack thickly in boxes or large 

 pots. Cover the roots up to the crown with soil, and place in a 

 reasonably cool temperature where light is excluded. A mush- 

 room cellar will do, but a slightly cooler temperature is better; 

 under the bench of a carnation or violet house is suitable if sev- 

 eral inches of soil is placed over the crowns to blanch the growth. 

 If watered when planted, can be let alone for some time. 



Rhubarb roots to be dug and laid aside to rest prior to forcing if early 

 supplies are wanted. 



Globe Artichokes to be protected against heavy frosts. Next year's 

 crop may be provided for by selecting a few of the strongest plants, 

 lift and pot them, and winter in a cool house. Cut back the foli- 

 age and a few of the strongest roots. These old roots will furnish 

 suckers for propagating next year. 



Cover crops may still be sown as the ground is cleared. Where this is 

 not practicable, ridging is beneficial, especially in heavy soil. 



Where the sub-soil is inert hardpan, the remedy is bastard trenching or 

 double digging. Or a sub-soiling plow may be employed. Ex- 

 cellent results are sure to follow. 



Onions lifted last month and now ripened, to be cleaned of loose rub- 

 bish and laid out in thin layers on a dry, airy shelf in a frost- 

 proof place, or strung on ropes and hung up. 



Vegetables Still Growing — Saving from Frost 



Toward the end of the month dig, for housing or pitting, Beets, Car- 

 rots, Sweet Potatoes, and all other root crops not to be left in the 



ground all winter. 

 Celery in full growth to be earthed up, and during the last part of the 



month the first lot may be stored in trenches for the winter. 



Prepare for protecting the remainder from severe frosts. 

 When frost threatens lift some of the best Cauliflower and plant close 



together in a deep frame, or cellar. 

 Endive approaching maturity will blanch if the sash is covered with 



shutters for a week or two. 

 Squash and Pumpkins to be gathered and stored before the)' are 



touched by frost. 

 Jerusalem Artichokes are ready for use any time after the plant flowers. 



Lift and store like potatoes after the tops die down. 

 Eggplants and Peppers to be picked before they freeze; they will keep 



for some time on dry straw in a dry, airy place. 

 Asparagus foliage to be cut down as soon as it shows signs of ripening. 



Clear weeds and rubbish from the bed and after frost apply a 



thick covering of manure. 

 Herbs, such as Thyme, Sage, Sweet Marjoram, etc., to be gathered, 



when perfectly dry, tied in bundles, arid suspended from the ceiling 



of a dry, airy room. 



Tending the Tender Roots, etc. 



Dahlias, Tuberoses, Gladiolus, Cannas, Caladiums, Tigridias, and all 

 summer-flowering bulbs to be taken up and stored away, after 

 being air-dried, in some airy place free from frost. 



Tender Waterlilies in tubs to be brought indoors after the tops freeze, 

 and gradually dried off to ripen the bulbs. 



Decorative purpose plants about the dwelling to be brought indoors on 

 the approach of frost. 



Everlastings (Helichrysums, Gomphrenas, etc.) to be cut before frost 

 and dried out somewhat in the sun before being brought indoors. 



Preparations for Next Year's Fruit 



Transplanting and planting new trees to be done as early as possible, 



to become established before severe weather sets in. Mulch the 



ground for a considerable area round the roots. 

 Strawberries layered in pots may still be set out. Remove runners 



from earlier plantings. Give old beds a thorough clear-up and 



get ready mulching material for use next month. 

 All fruit to be gathered before frost touches it, and avoid bruising in 



handling, which impairs the keeping quality. 

 Grafting cions of various fruits to be gathered as soon as the leaves fall, 



and buried in sand out of reach of frost, to remain until grafting 



time in spring. 

 Where it is not necessary to bury Blackberry and Raspberry canes to 



prevent winter-killing, tie securely to the trellis or other supports. 



Shorten any extra long canes. 



72 



