The Garden Magazine, October, 1921 



97 



can be trained into low, bushy growths, quite 

 as decorative as many shrubs. And the 

 flowers are attractive. 



Probably a home grown nut is no better 

 in quality than one bought at a store. Yet, 

 as appetite is the best sauce for any food, so 

 the pleasure of raising one's own nuts at 

 least adds to their piquancy. 



THERE IS STILL HOPE 



Despite the ravages of disease and the 

 swiftly depleting stock of native Chest- 

 nuts the outlook is not all gloom, for the 

 Japanese varieties may help to fill the gap. 

 Their greater hardiness in the matter of 

 resistance and the fact that, like the Peach, 

 they yield when only a few years old are 

 distinct points in their favor 



OCTOBER'S MEANING TO THE GARDENER 



IHE inspiring lesson that the gardener gives to the world 

 W$ is that of always marching hopefully toward the fu- 

 fe ture, and now that the fall is come he sets his mind on 

 the spring. In bridging {he gap of outdoor inactivity 

 from fall to spring there are foundations to be laid at both 

 ends, details of conservation and preparation, from fertility 

 of the soil to proper care of the garden accessories; from careful 

 storing of left over seeds, etc. to spraying against next year's 

 scale and pruning for next year's crops. Oh yes, there's much 

 actually ahead for the forward looking gardener. 



SOIL CONSERVATION 



There is a great deal more to soil cultivation than the ma- 

 jority of planters seem to believe. Experts on the subject agree 

 that both European and Oriental horticulturists are a great 

 deal further advanced in the practice of soil management and 

 in the conservation and stimulation of its fertility than we are. 

 To turn the soil itself is beneficial. To let weeds rob the sum- 

 mer's accumulated fertility is a crime against your garden. 

 The one way to prevent this is to cover the soil with some 

 useful crop that will add more fertility. Rye is perhaps the 

 best known of them. Where the season is long enough and at 

 least thirty days are left before frost arrives, it will be even bet- 

 ter to sow some Vetch with the Rye. Be sure to select the 

 Winter or Hairy Vetch (Vicia villosa), which will endure 

 throughout the winter, starting a growth very early next spring. 

 It will add nitrogen to the soil by its root bacteria as well as green 

 manure for the formation of humus. 



While considering conservation of soil fertility, please heed a 

 plea for the greater conservation of the fallen leaves. An 

 authority on the subject states that America annually wastes 

 one million dollars worth of valuable plant food by the burning 

 of dry leaves. Not only is leaf mold perhaps the finest possible 

 of all forms of humus, but, as Nature's own mold-forming ma- 

 terial, it stands practically for the one insurance against the 

 loss of fall planted trees and shrubs. The present waste of our 

 leaf-mold resources is appalling indeed. 



WATER WARDS OFF FROSTS 



It is good to continue to irrigate, because during cool, frosty 

 nights, moist sections are hit less severely by frost than 



where the soil is dry. Moreover, at this particular season, late 

 crops may be pushed along rapidly by timely irrigation, es- 

 pecially in the evening. Late plantings of Tomatoes, Melons, 

 Cucumbers, etc., may be hurried by scattering a teaspoonful of 

 nitrate of soda to each hill before irrigating. 



SAVE GREEN TOMATOES TO HAVE RIPE ONES AT CHRISTMAS 



It can be done; but of course careful handling is necessary, 

 just as in the case of choice winter fruits, Pears, Apples, etc. 

 Wrap every green tomato individually in tissue paper and 

 store away on shelves covered with straw; they will then keep 

 in good condition until Christmas, coloring up beautifully -as 

 they ripen. 



SPRAYING AND PRUNING FOR INCREASED YIELD 



As soon as frost strips the trees of foliage, they should be 

 sprayed with Scalecide or Horricum, or some one of the ready 

 made lime-sulphur or oil dormant sprays to keep the scale in 

 check. And, speaking of fruit trees, one frequently hears of 

 Apple or Pear trees that refuse to bear. Chances are that such 

 trees would be improved by moving, not necessarily because 

 they could be moved to a better and more favorable location, 

 but probably because the trees need root pruning. Of course 

 root pruning may be done where they stand. Frequently in 

 richly fed garden soils young fruit trees will "run to wood" or 

 they may be throwing out big roots in an orgy of luxurious feed- 

 ing instead of making fibrous roots so essential to producing 

 dense crowns with lots of fruit spurs. 



Severe root-pruning will often change things. After the prun- 

 ing or transplanting, press the soil into firm contact with the roots; 

 and mulching the surface, especially if such transplanting is done 

 rather late in the season, will prove doubly beneficial. 



ANOTHER WASTE TURNED INTO PROFIT 



Finally, it is worth while to take care of your tools! Put 

 them indoors, clean thoroughly, and protect metal parts with 

 grease. 



There is no other month, except perhaps March, when the 

 gardener has leisure to do all sorts of odds and ends, which, while 

 apparently insignificant, yet have the most far-reaching effect 

 on the future. 



