The Garden Magazine, November, 1921 



129 



the vines is wanted for cuttings, or the scions of fruit trees for 

 grafting, tie into bundles and bury in the ground until spring. 



.Mulching for the Strawberries may be put on toward the end of the 

 month in cold localities, though the generally accepted practice 

 is not to apply it until the severe weather of December sets in. 



Fruit trees affected with scale to be sprayed during mild weather 

 with a "dormant" spray. 



For the Land's Sake 



Heavy, retentive soils are benefited by trenching or double digging now, 

 leaving the surface as rough as possible. 



Clay sods which are hard and inert may be covered with furnace ashes 

 during winter to be dug in later. 



Land that has been heavily manured for several years will be benefited 

 by a liberal application of lime now. 



The orchard is to be a permanent feature of the place so prepare the 

 ground well. Plow deep, and subsoil to break up the hard pan 

 usually found beneath the surface soil. Make the holes where 

 the trees are to go much larger than necessary, and fill them up 

 with good soil and incorporate plenty of well-rotted barn-yard 

 manure. 



Work in the Greenhouses 



Early planted Freesias to be staked; feed when buds appear. 



Callas may have liquid manure as they show flower buds; apply freely 



as the plants grow. 

 Sweet-peas dislike heat. Around 45 is about right during the night, 



with a corresponding rise with sun heat during the day. Watering 



is important at this time. Avoid anything like stagnation, or 



waterlogged soil, yet on the other hand don't have it too dry. 

 Lilies intended for Christmas, to go into a warm house; do not feed 



until the buds show. Syringe overhead on bright days. Spray 



for aphis. Throw away diseased plants; they are not worth bother- 

 ing with. 

 Pansies to be planted in benches for flowering in February and March. 

 Lilium giganteum and formosum to be bought and potted up for Easter 



flowering. 

 Discontinue removing flowering buds from winter-flowering Begonias. 

 Camellias and Azaleas to be kept as near 40 degrees as possible. 

 Early planted Hyacinths, and Paperwhite Narcissus to be placed in a 



cool house and gently started. 

 Wall-flowers sown in May and transplanted, to be lifted, potted into 



5-in. pots, and placed in a coolhouse until February when they 



may be gently forced in a moderate temperature. 

 Pot-grown Rambler Roses intended for spring forcing are best kept in 



a coldframe until wanted. Tie up the canes, and lay the pots 



close together. 

 Hardy Delphinium lifted and boxed up now may be had in flower by 



gentle forcing several weeks ahead of these out of doors. Carry 



the clumps along in a coldframe. 

 Dielytras may be similarly treated; also Iris. 

 Clumps of Spireas to be thoroughly soaked in water and potted up as 



soon as they arrive. They are gross feeders and need rich 



compost. 

 Cinerarias for Christmas should now be in 5-in. pots. Those that have 



filled the pots with roots may be fed liquid manure water once a 



week. Give the plants a light sunny position on the bench, and 



plenty of room to develop the foliage. 

 Begonias Gloire de Lorraine and Cincinnati may be propagated from 



leaf cuttings. 

 Small-flowering Gladiolus of the Colvillei type to be planted in flats or 



bulb pans, and placed in coldframes, or coolhouse and brought 



into heat the latter part of February. 

 Chrysanthemums to be kept cool and dry, cuttings of bush plants to 



be rooted. 

 Geraniums, where flowers are wanted for Christmas, to be fed freely 



with fertilizer; and quit removing flowering stems. 

 Campanulas for forcing to be lifted from open ground, potted, and put 



in deep frame until January. 

 Allamandas and Bougainvilleas that have been growing on during the 



summer to be rested now. 

 Roman Hyacinths and Paperwhite Narcissus that have made plenty 



of roots can be placed in a temperature of 50 degrees, and batches 



brought in every ten days to maintain a succession. 

 Cinerarias and Schizanthus to be potted on as they require. Grow 



them cool (45 degrees at night.) 



Poinsettias need even temperature, maintaining 60 degrees at night 

 steadily. Feed with weak liquid manure twice a week as soon as 

 the bracts show color. 



Carnations require an even night temperature of 50 degrees. Discon- 

 tinue pinching. Early cuttings may be taken. 



Roses that have been flowering for some time may be given moderate 

 quantities of liquid manure, or topdressed with a mixture of half 

 soil and half cow manure. 



Palms and stove plants need a moderate resting period; keep the house 

 a few degrees lower at night (about 60 degrees). 



Large flowering English Primroses to be planted out in a house with a 

 violet-house temperature or wintered in pots in the frames, for 

 bringing in some time in February for Easter flower. 



Hydrangeas in Tubs or Planted Out 



Tender Hydrangeas may be buried with soil to protect them, or empty 

 barrels minus the bottom and top may be placed over them and 

 filled with leaves. 



Plants in tubs that have been gradually dried off, to be put into frost- 

 proof pit or cellar. Do not prune, as it will destroy the bloom. 



The Cleaning-up and New Start for the Flower Garden 



Fall sown Sweet-peas flower much earlier than spring sown. In the 

 vicinity of New York and the colder sections of the North Atlantic 

 states protection (i. e. a mulch) is essential. Sow before snow comes. 



Plant all spring flowering bulbs as soon as possible — there's nothing to 

 be won by delay. 



Dig over vacant beds and leave as rough as possible. 



Start giving protection to such things as tender Hydrangeas, Box- 

 woods, Rhododendrons, and Hemlocks in exposed situations. 



Protect slightly Foxgloves, Sweet Williams, Clove Pinks, and Yuccas, 

 etc., which remain more or less green all winter. They must not 

 be covered completely. 



Madonna Lilies, Oriental Poppy, Eremurus, Spanish Iris, etc., which 

 grow at the top during mild spells in winter can stand only a 

 loose light covering held in place with a few twigs. A heavy 

 covering for such plants spells disaster. 



Cut off and burn all flower stalks. 



Gather up the stakes and put them away for another season. 



Get the mulching material to some convenient place and apply it after 

 the ground freezes sufficiently. 



Perennials may be planted until the ground freezes up. 



Lift and store, preferably in a dry, cool cellar, Montbretias, Cannas, 

 Dahlias, Gladiolus, and other tender summer flowering bulbs. 

 Cannas winter well under a greenhouse bench. 



Cut everlasting flowers such as Gomphrenas and Straw-flowers before 

 they are badly frozen, and hang up indoors to dry. 



For the Californian Garden 



November and December. Continue planting spring flowering bulbs. 

 If they are in good condition Tulips may be put in as late as Christ- 

 mas and yet give good results. Sow in open ground such hardy an- 

 nuals as Calendula, Larkspur, Scarlet Flax, Poppy, Nasturtium, Sweet- 

 peas, and the many attractive native annuals — all will give spring 

 flowers. Set out Pansies, Stocks, Snapdragons, and Wallflowers. 

 Divide and replant perennials. Fertilize lawn. Toward the end of 

 the year plant dormant deciduous trees and shrubs. 



NEXT MONTH'S NUMBER 



THE December Garden Magazine, following the successful effort 

 of last year, will be issued as the Pacific Coast Annual. The cover 

 design by a California artist has its motif in an old mission doorway 

 in Monterey Co., California. Similarly, the leading feature articles 

 reflect strongly the interests of that flowery region. Mrs. Oakleigh 

 Thorne, who gardens successfully in both East and West, describes and 

 interprets the differences that encounter the Easterner when he goes to 

 the Golden West. Another article describes a Los Angeles suburban 

 home garden. Of broader appeal is Mr. Mark Daniel's inspirational 

 writing on the Seashore Gardens of the Pacific. A seed sowing table 

 for Annuals will serve the practical interests of the million who would 

 garnish their gardens with the gems of the floral world. Mr. Wood- 

 man, of the Horticultural Department at Berkeley-, writes on the 

 qualities and respective merits of the different Eucalyptus. Dahlia 

 fanciers will find an up to date review of the progress to triumph of 

 that popular flower in California. 



