The Garden Magazine, December, 1921 



205 



combinations of red and yellow only. White, cream, yellow, 

 apricot, scarlet, bronze, and brown are used in the scheme and 

 the wider range greatly softens and improves the effect. 



In the shrubby background the high points are given by 

 Eucalyptus ficifolia, a species quite different from most in that 

 it is dwarfer and slow growing. In August the best forms are a 

 blaze of orange-scarlet. The shrubs are selected for their 

 resistance to drought, varied texture of evergreen foliage, and 

 conspicuous flowers or berries in the color range desired. The 

 taller ones are in most cases the rearmost, and the somewhat 

 shorter and less vigorous ones are used as facers. Between 

 them they furnish some color all year. For example, Choisya 

 ternata, Kerria japonica, Berberis Darwinii, and Chorizema 

 are in flower from late January through February; Leptosper- 

 mum, Cytisus Andreanus, Cytisus albus (white Broom), 

 Streptosolon, the Cistuses, and Diosma ericoides through the 

 spring; Carpenteria californica, Lupinus arborea, Fremontia 

 californica in early summer. For midsummer Spanish Broom, 

 Escallonias, Cestrum aurantiacum, and the Lantanas must be 

 depended on, while through the fall we have the orange berries 

 of Pyracantha angustifolia, which are generally retained for 

 months. For none of these is any special culture required. 

 Planting should all be done during the rainy season. The 

 Streptosolon, Lantanas, and Linum triginum should only be 

 used where there is little frost. 



The front would be best edged informally with rather flat 

 stones over which the rock plants could clamber. Most of 

 those listed are. hardy perennials able to stand our dry summers. 

 Cheiranthus Allioni is a beautiful orange relative of the Wall- 

 flower, best sown in summer and treated as a biennial, that is, 

 allowed to bloom itself to death next spring. With good drain- 

 age the Verbenas and the Indian Pink Vesuvius are perennials, 

 albeit requiring occasional replacing. A few spring-flowering 

 Cape bulbs such as Freesias and Sparaxis have been added. 

 They require fall planting and may be left in the ground through- 

 out the year. To keep up the procession Violas (planted in 

 autumn) and certain summer-flowering annuals such as the 

 dwarfer Eschscholtzias, Dimorphotheca hybrids, dwarf Mari- 

 golds, and Calliopsis are necessary. They may be sown in early 

 spring where they are to bloom, and will require summer water- 

 ing and to be kept from going to seed. 



BETWEEN the edging and the shrubby background will be 

 found the hardy perennials, annuals, and bulbous plants 

 which are depended on to give the strong color effects. In the 

 early months of the year Daffodils and Tulips are the chief con- 

 tributors. The bare spaces they leave when planted alone are a 



grave problem anywhere, but especially so here. With pains 

 and thought the spaces can, however, be eliminated. Daffodils, 

 flowering in February or March, may be interplanted with 

 Ixias blooming in April or May, and among them a summer- 

 flowering annual may be sown in spring. So Spanish Iris may 

 follow Tulips, and similarly an annual follow them. In both 

 cases the later flowering bulb is planted only two or three inches 

 deep, between the Daffodils or Tulips which will be five or six 

 inches underground. To this middle planting the chief charac- 

 ter all through the spring will be given by the long blooming 

 Wallflowers. Fire King is a particularly brilliant variety, the 

 others are good for contrast and diversity. 



To the April and May effect the tall Bearded Irises, Orien- 

 tal Poppies, Columbines, Hemerocallis, Geums and Linarias 

 contribute. Irises Monnieri and ochroleuca are taller, later- 

 blooming varieties of the Spuria section with fine stiff foliage. 



In early summer are added Coreopsis, Gaillardias, Alstro- 

 merias, and for later summer display we have the various 

 annuals, Gladiolus, Montbretias, Tritomas, and the members of 

 the Sunflower family. A particularly strong color note at this 

 season is Leonotus leonurus, the so-called Lion's-ear, a tall 

 sub-shrubby plant with striking orange flowers in whorls. 



The main dependance in autumn is on Pompon Chrysanthe- 

 mums, which for this purpose are far better than the large- 

 flowered ones, as they need no staking. They can, if desired, 

 be treated as hardy perennials and simply cut back in April and 

 June to keep them dwarf. This is the easiest way, but if the 

 ground is needed for something else in spring the clumps can be 

 planted out of the way after blooming and offsets put into the 

 border again in May. 



Perhaps the effect most pleasing in this border is the softening 

 down given to the larger flowers in spring by the annual Linarias 

 which for months bloom among the other plants. Seeds of the 

 annual white, yellow, and yellow-and-red varieties sow them- 

 selves and have been so crossed by the bees that there are now 

 dozens of delightful combinations which in the sunshine glisten 

 like jewels. 



In this arrangement it will be noted that no attempt has been 

 made to restrict the border to hardy herbaceous perennials. 

 Under California conditions such restriction would be quite 

 inadvisable even if possible, for with a season extending almost 

 twelve months one must take advantage of all available ma- 

 terials. In any case, distinctions are to some extent eliminated 

 in a climate where Calceolarias, Cannas, and Montbretias can 

 be left outdoors throughout the year, Eschscholtzias and Wall- 

 flowers are perennials, and Salpiglossis and Indian Pinks at least 

 biennials. 



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