244 



The Garden Magazine, January, 1922 



dow box unrelated to the structural aspect of the house is likely 

 to be more troublesome and less interesting than if built into the 

 outside wall below the window and of the same material, whether 

 wood, brick, or concrete. 



Once flowers are planted they require only water, light, and 

 protection from extremes of temperature. Hardy species may 

 be selected that will serve through the major part of the year. 

 A well cared for window box carries a pleasing suggestion of 

 pride and thrift. 



The outside flower box is best placed well below the window. 

 Drooping or trailing vines and sprays, or very short-stemmed 

 flowers are most satisfactory. Tall flowers or high-growing 

 foliage obstruct light and air from the room and are apt to be 

 broken by the action of shutters. The best type of box for 

 either inside or outside use is, in my opinion, that which provides 

 for sub-irrigation as well as drainage. This method of watering 

 prevents the surface of the soil from becoming hardened or baked 

 as in the surf ace- watered box or pot, which fact alone saves the 

 lives of many plants. A liberal supply of air to the roots is con- 

 stantly maintained through sponges. The soil will always be 

 found workable and loose, and the moisture evenly distributed. 



A PORCH with pillars may be readily converted into a 

 plant room for winter use simply by having sash or window 

 frames made to fit between the pillars; these may be easily taken 

 down in summer to restore the porch character and the sash 

 stored in a convenient place until again wanted. Such an 

 arrangement not only affords a good conservatory, but at the 

 same time helps to keep the adjacent rooms warm during the 

 winter. A small oil stove may be used to supply heat; but, 

 better, a suitable supply run from the main heating plant. 

 Balconies may be converted in a similar way. Windows or any 

 ventilating sash should be readily accessible and easily worked, 

 and the plants so arranged as not to obstruct access thereto. 



In planning a sun room of any consequence there must be 

 ample provision for sunlight; also facilities for watering, heating, 

 and temperature control — this includes protection from cold 

 drafts in winter and excessive heat in summer. Easy access to 

 out-of-doors is requisite so that the plants may be handled 

 without disturbing the rest of the house, and the sun room com- 

 pletely shut off when necessary for purposes of fumigation. 



Whatever the size and shape of the structure, attach it to the 

 south, east, or west side of the house, and let it project so as to 

 have three sides exposed to the light and air. If of one story, 

 light should also be admitted from the roof where feasible. 

 The whole roof need not be of glass, even a third of the area in 

 glass greatly increases its efficacy as a conservatory. If glass 

 can be used only in the sides of the room, carry it as high as possi- 

 ble to admit a maximum of light from overhead, but such a place 

 will not "grow" plants. 



The matter of properly heating the plant room is one of the 

 most difficult and important problems to be solved. The best 

 way is to extend the main cellar under it, thus furnishing a per- 

 manent foundation; warmth under the floor; and making pipes 

 for heating, draining and watering easy of introduction. A coil 

 of ordinary heating pipes carried around the three sides of the 

 room and kept close to the walls is much to be preferred to any 

 system of radiators. This holds for either steam or hot water. 

 The pipes take less room, distribute the heat more uniformly, 

 and can be readily divided into pairs for the purpose of regula- 

 tion. Arrange the valves so that one-third, two-thirds, or the 

 total radiation may be used at will. The air should be cooler 



at night than in daylight, for any growth that is stimulated by 

 heat without a corresponding amount of daylight is weak and 

 undesirable. 



Storm windows are important. They make an absolutely 

 frostproof double wall of glass with consequent saving in fuel. 

 The plants may grow close up to the glass, even touching it 

 without chilling them; and the glass is always clear, not being 

 covered with frost in even the coldest weather. 



Ventilation from out-of-doors can be secured from transoms 

 above. These are best hinged in the centre so that when open, 

 the lower part of the window is outside and the upper is inside. 

 By this arrangement cold air rushing in is deflected upward by 

 the inclined surface of the window and is slowly diffused through 

 the room and warmed before it reaches the plants below. A 

 floor of concrete or tile, sloping toward a drain, preferably in 

 the centre, proves most serviceable. 



THE half-span or lean-to is an elaboration of the bay window 

 conservatory and is built against an existing structure. 

 For most purposes it should be located with the sloping roof 

 facing south. A popular plan is to attach it to a garage where 

 there is one. The heating system in one structure can then 

 furnish the heat for both. It is an economical measure to so 

 place a small greenhouse that heating pipes can be carried from 

 near by buildings, thus eliminating the otherwise necessary 

 workroom for housing the boiler. While a workroom is not in- 

 dispensable for small houses, it is, however, a decided conven- 

 ience, though potting, etc., can, of course, always be done on 

 one of the benches. 



If the garage is large enough so that part of it may be used as 

 a separate workroom for the greenhouse, so much the better, 

 but there should be no inside entrance between it and the garage, 

 as the fumes of gasoline and burnt oil are destructive to the 

 plants. It is also advisable to have the boiler cellar completely 

 cut off from the garage, this does away with fire dangers from 

 escaping gasoline. 



The workroom is the business end of the larger greenhouse. 

 It is here that the bins of soil are kept for repotting of plants. 

 It affords a convenient place for the potting bench and for pack- 

 ing flowers to be sent away, for seed and tool closets. It houses 

 in its cellar coal and boiler. In some of the less simple work- 

 rooms, a second story furnishes living quarters for the gardener 

 or his helpers, and on the lower floor an office for the gardener is 

 included, a refrigerator for cut flowers, and other up-to-date 

 features. 



In greenhouse construction the wood frame has become a 

 thing of the past, for the cost of its upkeep far outbalances its 

 initial cheapness. The iron frame is being universally substi- 

 tuted, and is from every point of view more practical, with the 

 added advantage of greater light inside with greater flexibility, 

 making it possible for the modern greenhouse to assume more 

 varied and interesting shape than its less amenable wooden pre- 

 decessor. Foundation and flooring is usually of cement, a ma- 

 terial also found serviceable for beds or benches; the unit type of 

 concrete bench proving particularly convenient. 



The setting up of a greenhouse or any sort of room for housing 

 your plants involves, of course, some expenditure, but an ex- 

 penditure perhaps more justifiable than many of the "non- 

 essential" appurtenances of the average house. Plants and 

 flowers are a constant source of interest and they give a 

 fresh, live aspect to the dwelling that can be supplied in no 

 other way. 



