THE BEAUTY OF THE WELL-MADE LAWN , 



It always pays from every point of view to make a good foundation no matter what one is 

 planning to build, and a proper lawn area enhances the effectiveness of any subsequent planting 



MAKING A LAWN THAT WILL LAST 



JOHN COLLINS CAMPBELL 



Landscape Architect 



STAGE I.— SOIL PREPARATION, GRADING, AND FERTILIZING 



Editors' Note: — Another article, Stage II., to follow shortly, will carry trie discussion into the seeding, mixtures and later maintenance of the lawn 



jECA'JSE a good lawn is the fundamental feature of the 

 home grounds, there is no phase of outside adornment 

 that requires more thorough preparation and diligent 

 care in the beginning than does a perfect lawn. 

 Existing conditions must be considered in every case as no 

 one solution of the grading problem will fit every case. The 

 character of the soil is perhaps our first important consideration 

 concerning which the following questions must be answered: 

 Does it contain a moisture supply at all times? 

 Does it take care of excess moisture in wet weather which is 



so necessary for the establishment of a good lawn? 

 Does it contain sufficient organic matter, a very important 

 character which enables the soil to retain its moisture? 

 Does it supply good drainage, for good drainage removes 

 harmful material in the drainage waters which are detri- 

 mental to a good lawn? 

 In a general way it may be stated that heavy soil should be 

 lightened by a liberal application'of sand, and light soil given a 

 body by applying a clay-loam or the equivalent. 



WHERE the existing sod on the area to be graded is firm 

 and has a good stand of grass, it should be carefully 

 stripped and stacked in piles, each alternate layer being 

 inverted so as to bring the 

 grass surfaces together, 

 which method will keep the 

 turf fresh and in good order 

 to be relaid. If the existing 

 sod is rather poor, it will be 

 better to plow it under as a 



Amounts of Fertilizer for an Area of About One-eighth Acre (5440 sq. ft.): 



Well rotted manure (stable) ---------____ 5 to 7 loads 



Lime -------------------- 125 lbs. 



Ground Bone (fine) ---------------- 100 " 



High grade fertilizer I ,, 



(3% Nitrogen, 6 to 8% Phosphoric Acid, 8% Potash) f ~ 5 ° 



fertilizer to the new lawn, thus giving the prepared soil a 

 fibrous quality. 



When the area to be graded is on virgin soil, there will be 

 found, in most cases, all kinds of roots, weeds, brush, and other 

 undesirable material the greater part of which should be re- 

 moved before any attempt to turn the soil is made. This done, 

 the area to be graded is definitely staked out. It is important 

 not to attempt a greater area than can be maintained in first- 

 class condition as the matter of up-keep of a perfect lawn is very 

 great, and it is far better to increase the area in shrubs and trees 

 than to have a too large and uncared for, untidy lawn. 



Where a considerable amount of fill is to take place, remove 

 the top-soil to its full depth, placing it in soil banks near the 

 work or spread it on the areas already sub-graded. At this 

 handling all sticks and stones are to be carefully removed and 

 care taken not to mix the topsoil with the subsoil. 



Where there is to be a large amount of fill, opportunity is 

 offered for the disposal of any accumulated rubbish. Any such 

 that will not decay may be placed in the fill by layering with 

 the heavy material on the bottom. A safe rule to follow is not 

 to allow rubbish to be placed in the last three feet of fill. Any 

 rocks encountered in the area should be removed at least ten 

 inches below the finished grade and where they exist of a con- 

 siderable size and are difficult 

 to remove they may be buried 

 by digging a hole at one side 

 deep enough to contain both 

 rock and the required amount 

 of fill over it. 



When the existing soil is 



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