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FEBRUARY— WELL BEGUN IS HALF DONE 



Herein are listed the seasonal activities for the complete garden. Details of how to do each item may 

 be found in the current or the back issues of The Garden Magazine — it is manifestly impossible to 

 make each number of the magazine a complete manual of practice. References to back numbers may be 

 looked up in the index to each completed volume (sent gratis on request); the Service Department will also 

 be glad to cite references to any special topic if asked by mail and to send personal replies to specific ques- 

 tions; a stamped, addressed envelope being enclosed. 



When referring to the time for out-door work of any sort New York City (latitude 40) at sea level in 

 a normal season is taken as standard; but at best dates can only be approximate. Roughly, the season 

 advances northward fifteen miles a day. Thus Albany, which is one hundred and fifty miles from New 

 York, would be about ten days later, and Philadelphia, which is ninety miles southwest, about a week 

 earlier. Also allow jour days for each degree of latitude, for each five degrees of longitude, and for each 

 four hundred feet of altitude. 



(Copyright, IQ22, Doubleday, Page y Co.) 



OUTDOOR work at this time is confined to pruning and spray- 

 ing and preparations for the first sign of spring. Any planning 

 yet to be done may well be set aside for evenings, and stormy 

 days. A walk around the place, notebook in hand, making 

 a list of the things to be done ahead of time is advisable. 

 The new seed catalogues are now out, and as soon as selections are 

 made send in the seed order; there is always congestion and delay in the 

 final rush. 



Mix up soil for sowing seeds now. If it be at all heavy, use plenty of 

 leaf soil and some sand to make it porous. If very dry, give it 

 water and then store away in large boxes or barrels ready for use 

 when needed. Get flats ready; repair old ones; make new; wash 

 old pots; order new supplies. Soak new pots in water before use. 

 For sowing seeds impatient of transplanting use paper pots. 



Complete repair and glazing of old sash as soon as possible, and give 

 another coat of paint to any new sash soon to be used. Don't 

 attempt to struggle along with too few sash. ■ It is very convenient 

 to have extra frames to accommodate the little seedlings from the 

 hotbed. 



Put sash on frames that have not been in use during winter so that the 

 ground will get warmed up. 



Making a Hotbed 



As a hotbed is indispensable for an early garden, get manure for it as 

 soon as possible. Turn a few times to allow the rank heat to 

 escape. For a gentler and more prolonged heat add a few leaves. 



With no equipment on hand a hotbed may be had this spring. Secure 

 manure as early as possible, and as soon as it. is actively heating, 

 pack in a low pile two feet longer and wider than the actual size 

 of the frame, and from two to three feet deep. When the frame 

 is placed in position on this, bank up to the top with leaves and 

 manure. Frozen lumps of soil put into the frame will soon thaw; 

 or flats of soil, with the seed sown in them, may be set on top of 

 the manure inside the frame. It is well to place a covering of soil 

 over the manure in any case. 



Planting must not be done until the heat (as shown by a thermometer 

 plunged in the soil) has reached eighty or eighty-five degrees on the 

 decline. Lettuce, Beets, Cabbage, Cauliflower, and Carrots inter- 

 planted with small-top Radishes may be sown during the month. 



The hotbed thermometer is only one of several appliances that are real 

 aids to early gardening. Protectors of various types used on 

 cold nights permit planting outdoors one or two weeks earlier than 

 would otherwise be safe and, used as forces during the day, will 

 hurry up crops verging on maturity while others left to themselves 

 are just breaking ground. 



In the Greenhouse 



With the lengthening days and increase of sun, plants are awakening to 



new life and it's time for a general spring scrub-down or clean-up. 



Proceed with annual re-potting of such foliage plants as Palms, 



Crotons, Pandanus, Marantas, etc. 

 Cut up clumps of Cannas preparatory to starting into growth, and dust 



sulphur over the cut surfaces. 

 Pelargoniums now in small pots will make by spring fine plants well 



covered with buds and flowers if potted into four inch size pots 



now. 

 Propagation of Crotons and similar foliage plants can be done in a close 



propagating frame with brisk bottom heat. 



The bulbs of Calanthes to be rested after flowering in a dry place where 

 the temperature does not go below 50 . 



Give stock plants of Chrysanthemums a light position in a temperature 

 of 48°. Take early cuttings. 



Start Elephant Ears (Caladium esculentum) into growth in gentle heat. 



Cinerarias require a cool temperature; 40° to 45 suits them best. 

 Repot any plants that are pot bound to keep them growing, for the 

 flowers require a setting of well-developed foliage. 



Calceolarias for early spring flowering to have a position with northern 

 exposure. They cannot stand direct sunlight, and are most im- 

 patient of heat, a temperature just above actual freezing 

 suits them better than anything above 40 . On clear mornings 

 spray lightly overhead. 



Calla Lilies need frequent feeding to keep on producing first class 

 blooms with long stems. Liquid cow manure is best and twice 

 a week is not too often; the soil must not be dry when the liquid 

 manure is applied or burning of the roots may result. 



Keep Genistas cool in a temperature that does not greatly exceed 45°, 

 giving plenty of water; liquid manure once a week. 



With increased sun heat and longer days Orchids will show signs of 

 active growth. Before the new growths of Cattleyas get too big is 

 the best time to repot them, or give a top-dressing. Adequate 

 drainage is an essential as is firm potting. Water with care at this 

 time. Ventilation without cold drafts is important. As spring 

 approaches a little shade is necessary. 



Clumps of hardy Perennials lifted last fall and wintered in coldframes 

 may be brought into a temperature of 45 . 



Give Stevia stock plants a light place in a cool house. 



Sowing Seed for the Flowers 



Hardy Herbaceous Perennials sown now will make large plants by fall 

 that will winter outdoors. 



For cutting during April, May, and June sow Candytuft, Calendulas, 

 Stocks, Sweet-peas, Cornflowers, Gladiolus, and African Daisies. 

 Annual Larkspur sown now will flower at the end of May; early 

 Asters in June. Sow Dahlias now; last year's roots set in the bench 

 will soon throw up cuttings for propagating purposes. Sow 

 Canterbury-bells to transplant when large enough and set out in 

 May for flowering next season. Sow Cobaea scandens. Sow 

 Pennisetum longistylum for edging semi-tropical beds, and, after 

 potting off, grow cool. 



Asparagus Sprengeri, Smilax, and Fibrous Begonias may still be sown. 



Sow Annuals for spring planting to be followed by another sowing later. 



Sow These Vegetables Now 



Early Tomato will give strong plants for setting outdoors at the end 

 of May. 



Cucumbers, Melons, Tomatoes, Cauliflower, etc., for forcing indoors. 



Cabbage, Lettuce, Beets, and Onions for later transplanting to cold- 

 frames. 



Cuttings to be Made 



Clean out old sand from the propagating bench, and start with a new 



supply; or saturate the old sand thoroughly with boiling-hot water 



before inserting cuttings. 

 Bouvardia root-cuttings to go into the propagating bench. Make the 



cuttings about an inch long; shade bench until top growth begins, 



then expose to full sunlight. 



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