The Garden Magazine, February, 1922 



297 



is rich enough for most flowers. Nasturtiums and all other 

 flowers growing much foliage actually bloom better on a some- 

 what poor soil. 



With few exceptions like Alyssum, Phlox, Poppies, etc., the 

 sowing of most flower seeds had best be deferred until the middle 

 of May when the soil has become reasonably warm. Sow and 

 forget you did it for a month. If gaps are then apparent, re-sow 

 at once. 



At best, the garden of Annuals is but a temporary expedient; 

 for permanency dependance must be put upon the hardy Peren- 

 nial. The fascination of starting with seeds is great, and where 

 the element of time does not count and space permits, by all 



means start a seedling bed of Perennials to care for the 

 future. 



For that Shady Nook 



FOR the shady nook where seemingly it is impossible to get 

 anything to grow, the accommodating Annual, in Forget-me- 

 not (Myosotis), is ready to thrive lustily if the ground be moist. 

 Mignonette, too, will do well in a moist shady spot, but is so 

 exacting in its moisture requirements that it cannot be grown 

 successfully in the average garden. For that reason it was not 

 included among the relatively few fragrant Annuals suitable for 

 cutting. This is true also of the Fragrant Tobacco. 



GROWING SWEET-PEAS 



A. W. ROE 



The Annual for the Million Combining in the Highest Degree Quality of 

 Stem, Harmonious Color, Variety of Shades, Grace of Form, and Fragrance 



[ODERN improvements in this fragrant, vari-colored, 

 graceful flower are so great that it has achieved a place 

 as a universal favorite among summer annuals. 

 Nearly every color can be had and numerous crossings 

 have produced some striking and beautiful combinations of hues 

 and mottlings fit to harmonize with any scheme of interior 

 decoration. Many people like to wear Sweet-peas, and as an 

 ornamental touch to the yard or lawn, nothing excels. 



To be successful with Sweet-peas, the first thing required is 

 to see that the plants have a chance to secure a deep root system. 

 If the ground was cleared and prepared the fall before planting 

 so much the better — but anyway select a sunny location, not 

 near any large trees or shrubbery, and dig a trench 12 inches 

 across, 24 inches deep, and as long as desired. In digging the 

 trench, keep the top soil and the bottom soil separate. Mix 

 equal parts of well rotted stable manure with the lighter soil 

 from the bottom of the trench and place this mixture in the 

 trench, filling it to within 12 inches of the surface of the ground. 

 Next, mix a little of the manure with the top soil and fill the 

 trench with this to the surface of the ground. As suggested, 

 the trench should be made and filled in the fall, but it may be 

 done as late as February if the condition of the ground will 

 permit. 



SOW the seed in the latter part of February or the first of 

 March. It is only through early sowing that the plants will 

 have time to develop a strong root system before hot weather. 

 If they have not done so before the warm days set in, the vines 

 will soon sicken and die. 



Seed may be soaked in water for about 24 hours just before 

 being placed in the ground. Many of the varieties have a 

 tough outside covering; this will be softened by the water, thus 

 allowing the plumule to make its exit more easily. Some expert 

 growers advise the sulphuric acid treatment of the seed. 



Select a time when the ground is fairly free from water and 

 take out four inches of the top soil of the trench. Then make 

 two trenches, six inches apart down the main trench, allowing 

 the seeds to be planted in a double row. Let these trenches be 3 

 inches deep and place the seeds from two to three inches apart 



in them. It is better to plant them a little thick to be sure 

 of a good stand. Notice that the surface of the trench is now 

 four inches below the surface of the main soil, even after the 

 seeds have been covered and the soil well packed on them. 



As the Peas appear above ground and grow, fill in soil about 

 them until the trench has been completely filled. This method 

 of planting will give them a deeper rootage than is possible if 

 they are planted flush with the surface of the ground. It is 

 absolutely necessary that water be not allowed to stand in the 

 trench after the seeds have been planted. If it is inclined to do 

 this, dig a trench at one end of the main trench, deeper than the 

 Peas are planted, to conduct the water away. Too much water 

 will sour the soil and scald the young vines. 



BRUSH makes good supports for the Pea vines to cling to, 

 but is not always easy to secure. Perhaps the next best 

 thing is small-meshed net fence wire. I have seen a trellis 

 made in the manner to be described that gave the vines excel- 

 lent support and was at the same time ornamental. 



At each end of the trench, set a wooden post so that it will 

 be five feet above the ground. You may not be successful in 

 growing vines to that height but it is well to prepare for the 

 taller vines; you might have them. Near the ground and at 

 each end, nail a cross piece. These pieces are six inches long 

 and to them are nailed side slats. There is also a slat 

 nailed to the tops of the stakes. Next, procure ordinary wrap- 

 ping cord and run it from the bottom slat to the top one, back 

 and forth, crossing it and tying so as to form a mesh fine 

 enough for the small tendrils to catch to in their upward climb. 



The main thing in growing fine Sweet-peas is to plant them 

 early and deep so that they will secure a firm root system. Con- 

 tinue to pull soil up to them at intervals during the spring 

 months. Work the soil with a short gardener's fork, verv lightly, 

 but do not allow it to pack or bake about the plants. 



When the blossoms appear, they must be picked off carefully 

 just as soon as they are fully open. If the vines are allowed to 

 make seed, growth ceases, and there is little further bloom, 

 for the whole object of the plant's growth — seed forming — has 

 been achieved. 



