NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER. 321 



view of the high promontory of Cape Disappointment, and the ocean 

 bounding it on the west; the Chinook Hills and Point Ellice, with its 

 rugged peak, on the north ; Tongue Point and Katalamet Range on 

 the east; and a high background, bristling with lofty pines, to the 

 south. The ground rises from the river gradually to the top of a ridge 

 five hundred feet in elevation. This was originally covered with a 

 thick forest of pines: that part reclaimed by the first occupants is 

 again growing up in brushwood. From all parts of the ground the 

 broad surface of the river is in view. The stillness is remarkable, and 

 makes it evident that one is yet far removed from civilized life : the 

 distant though distinct roar of the ocean is the only sound that is heard: 

 this, however, is almost incessant ; for the stream, though rushing on- 

 wards in silence to meet the ocean, keeps up an eternal war with it on 

 the bar, producing at times scenes of great grandeur, but which, as we 

 had already experienced, renders the bar wholly impassable for days 

 together. 



The magnificent pine, so often mentioned by travellers, lies prostrate 

 near the tomb of the hospitable chief Concomely, now in ruins. The 

 chief's skull, it is believed, is in Glasgow, having been long since re- 

 moved by Dr. Gardner. 



There were many things to remind us of home : among them was a 

 luxuriant sward of white clover, now in full blossom, and numerous 

 other plants that had found their way here : the trees were also familiar, 

 and truly American. I felt that the land belonged to my country, that 

 we were not strangers on the soil ; and could not but take great interest 

 in relation to its destiny, in the prospect of its one day becoming the 

 abode of our relatives and friends. 



The Columbia, opposite to Astoria, is four miles wide, but in the 

 middle of the river is an extensive sand-bar, with only a few feet water 

 on it, and at extreme low tides it is bare : the channel is very narrow 

 on each side and difficult to navigate. At Astoria there is only space 

 for a dozen vessels to lie at anchor, and it would therefore be difficult 

 to accommodate any extensive trade. The point of land extends about 

 half a mile below its site, where Young's river joins the Columbia, and 

 forms a bay, on the banks of which Lewis and Clarke wintered. The 

 position of their hut is still pointed out, but the building has long since 

 gone to decay. 



Plumondon, who, as I have before mentioned, is an expert trapper, 

 informed me that the country lying north of the Columbia, between the 

 Cowlitz and Cape Disappointment, is generally rough and rugged, with 

 numerous streams of water, and in many places a rich soil : it is 



VOL. iv. 41 



