WILLAMETTE VALLEY, 371 



that one little expects to see. As wives, they are spoken of as most 

 devoted, and many of them have performed deeds in the hour of 

 danger and difficulty, worthy of being recorded. They understand 

 the characters of Indians well. 



About ten o'clock, we were all summoned to the great dining-hall 

 by Dr. M'Laughlin, to take the parting cup customary in this country. 

 When all were assembled, wine was poured out, and we drank to each 

 other's welfare, prosperity, &c. This was truly a cup of good-fellow- 

 ship and kind feeling. This hanging to old Scotch customs in the way 

 it was done here is pleasant, and carries with it pleasing recollections, 

 especially when there is that warmth of feeling with it, that there was 

 on this occasion. After this was over, we formed quite a cavalcade 

 to the river-side, which was now swollen to the top of its banks, and 

 rushing by with irresistible force. 



On reaching the river, we found one of Mr. Ogden's boats manned 

 by fourteen voyageurs, all gaily dressed in their ribands and plumes ; 

 the former tied in large bunches of divers colours, with numerous 

 ends floating in the breeze. The boat was somewhat of the model of 

 our whale-boats, only much larger, and of the kind built expressly to 

 accommodate the trade : they are provided yearly at Okonagan, and 

 are constructed in a few days : they are clinker-built, and all the tim- 

 bers are flat These boats are so light that they are easily carried 

 across the portages. They use the gum of the pine to cover them 

 instead of pitch. 



After having a hearty shake of the hand, Captain Varney, Mr. 

 Ogden, and myself, embarked. The signal being given, we shoved 

 off, and the voyageurs at once struck up one of their boat-songs. 

 After paddling up the stream for some distance, we made a graceful 

 sweep to reach the centre, and passed by the spectators with great 

 animation. The boat and voyageurs seemed a fit object to grace the 

 wide-flowing river. On we mei'rily went, while each voyageur in 

 succession took up the song, and all joined in the chorus. In two 

 hours and a half we reached the mouth of the Cowlitz, a distance of 

 thirty-five miles. 



In the Cowlitz we found a strong current to contend against, and 

 by nightfall had only proceeded twelve miles further. As we en- 

 camped, the weather changed, and rain began to fall, which lasted till 

 next morning. 



I had much amusement in watching the voyageurs, who are as 

 peculiar in their way as sailors. I was struck with their studious 

 politeness and attention to each other, and their constant cheerfulness. 



On the second day, our voyageurs had doffed their finery, and their 



