142 COLUMBIA RIVER. 



viewed through a smoked glass. We were, fortunately, in a great 

 degree, independent of it, as it was not necessary to see more than a 

 short distance to discover the signals for the soundings. It however 

 prevented me from verifying my astronomical stations, which I was 

 desirous of doing. 



Acting-Master Sinclaii-, who had been despatched to Vancouver 

 for some articles belonging to the Oregon, that had been left there, 

 joined us below Warrior's Point, on the 19th, with letters and news 

 that had been brought from the United States by an over-land party. 

 These letters were very acceptable, as we had not received any 

 advices from home for twenty-two months, and tended to revive our 

 spirits, as well as encourage our exertions. On the 20th, we anchored 

 again off Coffin Rock, near which we found a depth of twenty-five 

 fathoms, which is the deepest water within the capes. This place is 

 sixty miles from the mouth of the river, and eight miles above the 

 confluence of the Cowlitz. The shores here are composed of trap 

 and a conglomerate, the last of which is the same rock as that which 

 occurs below, and has already been spoken of. The Coffin Rock, 

 which is not more than sixty feet in diameter, and twelve feet above 

 the water, appears to have been exclusively reserved for the burial of 

 chiefs. Dr. Holmes procured here some fine specimens of Flathead 

 skulls for our collection. We anchored the same evening off the 

 Cowlitz. 



Early the next morning, I proceeded up the Cowlitz in my gig, in 

 order to finish the survey of that stream and examine the strata of 

 coal said to exist there. After entering it, it was with difficulty that I 

 recognised the river ; for there is a greater difference than even in the 

 Columbia, between its high and low states. After passing up the Cow- 

 litz several miles, I encountered rapids, through which it was necessary 

 to drag the boat by a line. I found, after great exertion and fatigue, 

 we could not ascend beyond thirteen miles; for it had become so shallow 

 that the boat would not float, and we had not strength enough to force 

 her over the wide bars of gravel and sand, that had apparently accu- 

 mulated during the last spring. After securing some specimens of 

 lignite that were found embedded in the alluvial banks, and taking 

 observations for time, I turned back ; and feeling anxious to reach the 

 brig at an early hour, I ventured to shoot one of the rapids. In doing 

 this, we all had a narrow escape ; and particularly two of the boat's 

 crew, who were in great danger of their lives. We fortunately 

 escaped, but with considerable damage to the boat and a few bruises, 

 the whole of which was the work of an instant. This taught me not 

 to venture upon such an experiment again, and I felt thankful to escape 



