CALIFORNIA. 153 



of the former, as he was absent, and appeared, at least among the 

 foreigners, to be little known. 



At Yerba Buena there was a similar absence of all authority. The 

 only officer was the alcalde, who dwells at the mission of Nostra Seiiora 

 de los Dolores, some three miles off. He was full of self-importance, 

 making up for what he wanted in the eyes of others by a high estimate 

 of his own dignity. I could find no one who could furnish me with 

 his name, which must be my apology for not recording it in this place. 

 Some excuse may be offered for his inattention to his duties, as I 

 understood that he had just been united in wedlock to a lady of one of 

 the distinguished families of the country ; and after such an event in 

 California much gaiety and rejoicing usually follow, until the hilarity 

 at times becomes so uproarious as to end in fighting and bloodshed. 



Under the Palermo Mountain, or Table Hill of Beechey, which is 

 two thousand five hundred feet high, and sparsely wooded with a few 

 gnarled and scraggy oaks, the hills open towards the bay into a kind 

 of vale, which had been chosen for the position of the observatory, 

 and where the instruments had been set up under the direction of 

 Lieutenant Carr. This place is well adapted for the resort of whalers. 

 Here they may repair their boats, obtain water, and refit ; and from 

 their frequent resort to it, has obtained the name of Whaler's Harbour. 

 The cove is a safe anchorage, being protected from the northwest and 

 westerly winds, which prevail during the summer season, and often 

 blow with great violence. 



At the time of our visit, the country altogether presented rather a 

 singular appearance, owing, as I afterwards observed, to the withered 

 vegetation and the ripened wild oats of the country. Instead of a 

 lively green hue, it had generally a lint of a light straw-colour, show- 

 ing an extreme want of moisture. The drought had continued for 

 eleven months ; the cattle were dying in the fields ; and the first view 

 of California was not calculated to make a favourable impression 

 either of its beauty or fertility. 



I found it very difficult to obtain accurate information in relation to 

 Upper California. The country, at the time of our visit, and for 

 several years previous, had been in a state of revolution ; and, as is 

 often the case under similar circumstances, was involved in anarchy 

 and confusion, without laws or security of person and property. It 

 is undergoing such frequent changes, that it is difficult to understand 

 or to describe them. 



With California is associated the idea of a fine climate, and a rich 

 and productive soil. This, at least, was the idea with which I entered 



vol. v. 20 



