CALIFORNIA. 211 



practising. There was certainly nothing earthly in the sound, nor yet 

 heavenly ; much noise, but little music. 



We were up betimes, but were threatened with disappointment in 

 our horses. The kind and attentive Donna Aliza served us with choco- 

 late and toast, and prepared cold tongues, chickens, and ample stores 

 of bread for our use. At last the horses, together with the Indians 

 who were to accompany us, made their appearance, and out of the 

 number, I recognised at least three that belonged to the administra- 

 dor, as I had been led to believe would be the case the evening before. 

 His good wife ordered us their best saddles, but without the pillions 

 or saddle-cloths. 



After an hour's preparation, we took our leave and galloped off, in 

 company with Don Miguel, who proposed to accompany us some six 

 or seven miles, on our way to visit some of his herds, that were then 

 feeding on the prairie. We had not proceeded far before we were 

 overtaken by the person who had them in charge, coming at a furious 

 gallop. He was mounted on the best horse I had seen in the country, 

 and dressed after the Californian fashion, in a dark brown cloth jacket, 

 thickly braided, both before and behind, with slashed sleeves, showing 

 his shirt elegantly embroidered, both on the breast and sleeves ; velvet 

 breeches of bright blue, secured around his waist with a red sash, and 

 open at the sides, ornamented with braid and brass bells, in abundance ; 

 below the knee he wore leather leggins, fastened with garters, worked 

 in silver, and below these, shoes, over which were fastened large silver 

 spurs, with the heavy rowels of the country ; on his head was tied a 

 red bandana handkerchief, and over that a huge broad-brimmed som 

 brero, with peaked crown, covered with an oil-silk cloth; the whole 

 decorated with cords, aiguillettes, and ribands, with a guard-cord pass- 

 ing under the chin. His horse was equally well caparisoned, the bridle 

 being decked with silver, as were the tips of his large wooden stirrups; 

 with pillions and saddle-cloths in abundance. Few riders had so gay 

 an air, or seemed to have so perfect a command of the animal he 

 rode ; and until we arrived at the wood where his Indians were look- 

 ing out, he was an object of great attraction, assuming all the airs and 

 graces of a person of high rank. 



After galloping for several miles, we reached a few trees and 

 bushes, that are designated as the " woods." Near by was a large 

 herd of cattle feeding. The Rancheros we found lying about, in 

 huts of hide, with a fire in front, and the leg-bone of an ox roasting 

 over it ; the skulls, bones, and offal, lay about, with hides here and 

 there pegged to the ground.* Some score of dogs were disputing 



* The hides of the cattle that die, or that are killed fur food, are cured in this way. 



