212 CALIFORNIA. 



over that last killed, and the ground around seemed alive with cranes, 

 crows, &c, acting as scavengers, and disputing for their shares. 

 There is no smell except that of raw beef; the climate is so dry that 

 no putrid matter exists, but the sight is unpleasant enough to those who 

 have not become accustomed to it. 



Previous to setting out, we provided our saddles with extra sheep- 

 skins ; we now took leave of Don Miguel, with many thanks for his 

 attentions, and a hearty shake of the hand. We soon found that our 

 horses began to fag from the effects of our bad riding, and the fatigued 

 and wretched condition they were in ; and by the time we arrived at 

 Las Pulgas, we found it necessary to change, and were glad to have 

 a temporary relief from our saddles. Any one who has ever ridden 

 upon a Californian saddle, with but a slender covering to it, will be 

 able to understand our feelings. We were besides but ill provided 

 for the trip, which our nags seemed not slow to discover. We had 

 no well-armed heels, and were, besides, deficient in whips, both in- 

 dispensable to a rider in California. The consequence was, that they 

 could not be made to move along, without most laborious efforts of 

 bodily strength. 



The country we passed through was at this time destitute of both 

 water and grass, and the weather uncomfortably warm. In places 

 we found it picturesque, from the scattered oaks, laurels, &c, though 

 to all appearance entirely unfit for cultivation. Wherever there was 

 any running water, a pond, or vegetation, large flocks of geese and 

 ducks were seen. At four o'clock, we entered the estancia of Senor 

 Sanchez, to whom Don Miguel had given us a note of introduction, 

 desiring that he would aid us if we wanted horses. We had looked 

 forward to this point with hope, in the belief that our troubles in riding 

 such forlorn beasts would terminate, and that our bodies as well as 

 our minds would be set at rest. 



The word estancia seems to give one an idea of something more 

 extensive than a small farm : it sounds more noble and wealthy ; but 

 whatever had been our opinion before, the reality disappointed us. 

 Senor Sanchez's estancia at a distance was quite a respectable-looking 

 building; the broad shadow cast by its projecting roof gave it a 

 substantial and solid appearance ; but a nearer approach dispelled 

 these favourable impressions, and showed its uncouth proportions, as 

 well as the neglect in which the whole was kept. The way to the 

 house, which stands on a knoll, leads through miry places, and over 

 broken-down fences, winding around dilapidated ox-carts, over troughs, 

 old baskets, dead hogs, dogs, and fowls, all huddled together. Rude 

 articles of husbandry occupied the sides of the building. Seeing no one, 



