294 MANILLA. 



as would indicate the residence of vice-royalty. The suite of rooms 

 into which we were ushered were so dark that it was difficult to see. 

 I made out, however, that they were panelled, and by no means richly 

 furnished. His excellency entered from a side-door, and led us through 

 two or three apartments into his private audience-room, an apartment 

 not quite so dark as those we had come from : our being conducted 

 to this, I was told afterwards, was to be considered an especial mark 

 of respect to my country. His reception of us was friendly. The 

 governor has much more the appearance of an Irishman than of a 

 Spaniard, being tall, portly, of a florid complexion. He is apparently 

 more than sixty years of age. He was dressed in a full suit of black, 

 with a star on his breast. 



Mr. Moore acted as interpreter, and the governor readily acceded 

 to my request to be allowed to send a party into the interior for a few 

 days ; a permission which I almost despaired of receiving, for I knew 

 that he had refused a like application some few months before. The 

 refusal, however, I think was in part owing to the character of the 

 applicants, and the doubtful object they had in view. I impute the 

 permission we received to the influence of our consul, together with 

 Mr. Sturges, whose agreeable manners, conciliatory tone, and high 

 standing with the authorities, will, I am satisfied, insure us at all times 

 every reasonable advantage or facility. 



The term of the governor in office is three years, and the present 

 incumbent was installed in 1841. This length of time is thought to be 

 sufficient for any one of them to make a fortune. The office is held 

 by the appointment of the ministry in Spain, and with it are connected 

 perquisites that are shared, it is said, by those who confer them. 



After having paid our respects to his excellency, we drove to visit 

 several other officers of the government, who received us without cere- 

 mony. We generally found them in loose morning-gowns, smoking, 

 and cigars were invariably offered us ; for this habit appears in 

 Manilla to extend to all ranks. Even in the public offices of the 

 custom-house it was the fashion, and cigars, with a machero for 

 striking a light, or a jost-stick kept burning, were usually seen in every 

 apartment. 



To the captain of the port, Don Juan Salomon, I feel under many 

 obligations for his attentions. I was desirous of obtaining information 

 relative to the Sooloo Seas, and to learn how far the Spanish surveys 

 had been carried. He gave me little hopes of obtaining any ; but 

 referred me to Captain Halcon, of the Spanish Navy, who had been 

 employed surveying some part of the coast of the islands to the north. 

 The latter, whom I visited, on my making the inquiry of him, and 



