298 MANILLA. 



have a family; and no odium whatever is attached to such a con- 

 nexion. They are looked upon as man and wife, though they do not 

 live together; and they rarely fail to solemnize their union when they 

 have accumulated sufficient property to procure the requisite articles 

 for housekeeping. 



Three nights in each week they have music in the plaza, in front of 

 the governor's palace, by the bands of four different regiments, who 

 collect there after the evening parade. Most of the better class resort 

 here, for the pleasure of enjoying it. We went thither to see the 

 people as well as to hear the music. This is the great resort of the 

 haut ton, who usually have their carriages in waiting, and promenade 

 in groups backwards and forwards during the time the music is play- 

 ing. This is by far the best opportunity that one can have for view- 

 ing the society of Manilla, which seems as easy and unrestrained as 

 the peculiar gravity and ceremonious mode of intercourse among the 

 old Spaniards can admit. Before the present governor took office, it 

 had been the custom to allow the bands to play on the Prado every 

 fine evening, when all the inhabitants could enjoy it until a late hour ; 

 but he has interdicted this practice, and of course given much dissatis- 

 faction ; he is said to have done this in a fit of ill temper, and although 

 importuned to restore this amusement to the common people, he perti- 

 naciously refuses. 



The bands of the regiments are under the direction of Frenchmen 

 and Spaniards : the musicians are all natives, and play with a correct 

 ear. 



Our afternoons were spent in drives on the Prado, where all the 

 fashion and rank of Manilla are to be met, and where it is exceedingly 

 agreeable to partake of the fresh and pure air after a heated day in 

 the city. The extreme end of the Prado lies along the shore of the 

 bay of Manilla, having the roadstead and ships on one side, and the 

 city proper with its fortifications and moats on the other. This drive 

 usually lasts for an hour, and all sorts of vehicles are shown off, from 

 the governor's coach and six, surrounded by his lancers, to the sorry 

 chaise and limping nag. The carriage most used is a four-wheeled 

 biloche, with a gig top, quite low, and drawn by two horses, on one of 

 which is a postilion; these vehicles are exceedingly comfortable for 

 two persons. The horses are small, but spirited, and are said to be 

 able to undergo great fatigue, although their appearance does not 

 promise it. This drive is enlivened by the music of the different 

 regiments, who are at this titne to be seen manoeuvring on the Prado. 

 The soldiers have a very neat and clean appearance ; great attention 

 is paid to them, and the whole are well appointed. The force sta- 



