MANILLA. 200 



tioned in Manilla is six thousand, and the army in the Philippines 

 amounts to twenty thousand men. The officers are all Spaniards, 

 generally the relations and friends of those in the administration of 

 the government. The pay of the soldiers is four dollars a month, and 

 a ration, which is equal to six cents a day. As troops, I was told 

 they acquitted themselves well. The Prado is laid out in many 

 avenues, leading in various directions to the suburbs, and these are 

 planted with wild almond trees, which afford a pleasant shade. It is 

 well kept, and creditable to the city. 



In passing the crowds of carriages very little display of female 

 beauty is observed, and although well-dressed above, one cannot but 

 revert to their wearing no stockings beneath. 



On the Prado is a small theatre, but so inferior that the building 

 scarce deserves the name: the acting was equally bad. This amuse- 

 ment meets with little encouragement in Manilla, and I was told, was 

 discountenanced by the Governor. 



I had the pleasure during our stay of attending a tertulia in the 

 city. The company was not a large one, comprising some thirty or 

 forty ladies and about sixty gentlemen. It resembled those of the 

 mother country. Dancing was introduced at an early hour, and con- 

 tinued till a few minutes before eleven o'clock, at which time the 

 gates of the city are always shut. It was amusing to see the sudden 

 breaking up of the party, most of the guests residing out of the city. 

 The calling for carriages, shawls, hats, &c, produced for a few 

 minutes great confusion, every one being desirous of getting off at the 

 earliest moment possible, for fear of being too late. This regulation, 

 by which the gates are closed at so early an hour, does not appear 

 necessary, and only serves to interrupt the communication between 

 the foreign and Spanish society, as the former is obliged, as before 

 observed, to live outside of the city proper. This want of free inter- 

 course is to be regretted, as it prevents that kind of friendship by 

 which many of their jealousies and prejudices might be removed. 



The society at this tertulia was easy, and so far as the enjoyment 

 of dancing went, pleasant ; but there was no conversation. The re- 

 freshments consisted of a few dulces, lemonade, and strong drinks in 

 an anteroom. The house appeared very spacious and well adapted for 

 entertainments, but only one of the rooms was well lighted. From 

 the novelty of the scene, and the attentions of the gentleman of the 

 house, we passed a pleasant evening. 



The natives and mestizoes attracted much of my attention at Ma- 

 nilla. Their dress is peculiar : over a pair of striped trousers of 

 various colours, the men usually wear a fine grass-cloth shirt, a large 



