AMERICAN 
January, 1906 
HOMES 
AND GARDENS 35 
Truffle Culture in France 
By Jacques Boyer 
HE origin of truffles was long enveloped in 
mystery, but now, after the researches of 
Tulasne, Chatin, and, in particular, Duke 
Gramont de Lesparre, the opinions of 
botanists are definitely fixed. ‘The truffle is 
a mushroom of the order of thecaspores, 
that is to say, its pores or seeds are inclosed in sporangia or 
“thece.”’ 
Of varieties we may mention, first, the violet truffle, which 
abounds in Périgord and Provence. It is covered with polyg- 
onal warts and often marked with rusty spots. Its weight 
usually ranges from sixty to a hundred grams (2 to 3% 
ounces), though specimens weighing 500 grams (more 
truffle is found everywhere in the forests of central and 
southern France, growing under hornbeams, birches and 
hazel bushes. ‘Though its rather coarse, onion-like odor 
lessens its value, it is almost the only variety seen in the 
markets of England, Germany and Piedmont. 
The truffle known as the “‘grosse fouine,”’ or ‘‘pitchfork,”’ 
somewhat resembles the St. John’s truffle, but is distinguished 
from it by the smallness of its warts, its moderate size, rough 
black skin, and dark tawny gray flesh, marked with fine black 
lines, and usually by a broad cleft near the base. 
Another wild species which is still sold is the musk truffle, 
known in Provence by the name of “‘caillette.”’ 
The remaining wild species, which are included under the 
Women Cleaning Truffles, and Packing them in Jars and Boxes 
than a pound) are sometimes found. At maturity, which it 
reaches in late autumn or winter, its flesh is black with a red- 
dish or violet sheen. Its agreeable flavor and delicate odor 
make it the most highly esteemed of all varieties. 
The black fruffle, smaller than the preceding, and of vari- 
able size, is found about four inches below the surface of the 
ground. Its flesh is gray or bister, marked with light red 
spots at maturity. It is not in very great demand, because 
of its musky odor. ! 
The St. John’s or summer truffle is gathered in July or in 
October. The tubers of this species are rounded and have a 
brownish black skin and large polygonal warts, striped trans- 
versely. The flesh, nearly white at first, becomes, on ripen- 
ing, a clay yellow or light brownish bister. The summer 
general designation of ‘‘dog’s nose,” because of their re- 
semblance to the muzzle of that useful quadruped, possess 
no gastronomic importance. 
In regard to the yield of a truffle ground, the principal 
factor is the nature of the soil; calcareous soils appear to be 
the most favorable. When the lime is in a state of very fine 
division, the tubers develop regularly, while in hard, stony 
ground they become crooked and distorted. Sunny slopes 
on which oaks, beeches and vines grow are admirably adapted 
to truffle culture. 
In the second place, truffle growers welcome torrential 
rains in July and August. When rain falls in moderate quan- 
tity in April and May, and again in September, the crop is 
usually excellent, while prolonged autumn rains greatly re 
