246 



AMERICAN HOMES AND GARDENS 



October, 1906 



Lilium Auratum 



I never give designs for bulb-beds, because the most 

 effective bulb-beds are those which have no "designs" about 

 them. The illustrations of tulip and paper-white narcis- 

 sus, which accompany this article, will make plain my 

 meaning. In these beds the bulbs are simply massed, 

 giving one a suggestion of their having arranged them- 

 selves. The effect is vastly superior to any formal ar- 

 rangement. If contrast of color is desired, it can be 

 secured by using different varieties, as shown in the tulip- 

 bed. But never make the mistake of planting bulbs of 

 different kinds in the same bed. Keep your tulips by 

 themselves, your hyacinths likewise. And give your 

 narcissuses a place where they can scatter their floral sun- 

 shine untroubled by any rival. Of the latter flower do not 

 fail to grow several varieties. Have a bed of the single 

 yellow-and-white sorts, another of the magnificent double 

 varieties like Van Sion, or Horsfieldii, or Empress, and a 

 mass of the lovely paper-white kinds, as shown in the 

 illustrations. 



In order to carry out the scheme of massings, as shown 

 in the illustrations of tulips and narcissus, it will be neces- 

 sary to plant a large number of bulbs. By looking over 

 the catalogues, and seeing the prices at which named 

 varieties are sold, one might not feel able to afford the ex- 

 pense of planting on so large a scale. But a further exam- 

 ination of the catalogue will show you that mixed bulbs 

 can be bought at such reasonable rates that almost any one 

 can afford enough to fill quite a bed. These bulbs will 

 give you quite as large, fine flowers as the named sorts will, 

 but because they are "mixed" you can not be sure of what 

 you are going to get from them until they bloom. But 

 you may be sure, in advance, of their giving complete 

 satisfaction. 



Before the setting in of winter cover the bulb-beds with 

 eight or ten inches of litter from the barn-yard. This will 

 not keep the frost from penetrating to them, but it will 

 prevent it from getting out once it is in the soil, and, by 

 doing this, it will prevent that heaving of the earth which 

 results in broken roots and loosened bulbs. It is the fre- 

 quent alternation of freezing and thawing which does the 



harm — not the frost itself. If we can keep the ground 

 frozen after it once becomes so, by preventing the sun 

 from undoing what the frost has done, tender plants 

 would survive our northern winters. Covering the bulbs, 

 as advised, is equivalent to shading the soil and keeping 

 the sunshine out, thus guarding against the frequent alter- 

 nations of heat and cold which rupture the cells of the 

 plants, as well as the tender roots they put out in fall. 

 In connection with this article on the outdoor culture of 

 bulbs, it may be well to say something about forcing them 

 for winter-bloom in the winter-garden. Properly treated, 

 they are sure to bloom. 



A rich, light compost should be specially prepared for 

 them by mixing loam, sand and well-rotted cow-manure in 

 nearly equal parts. One-third manure may seem excessive, 

 but it really is not, for success depends largely upon a vig- 

 orous and rapid development which can not be secured by 

 soil of only moderate richness. 



Single tulips and hyacinths are preferable, for forcing, 

 to double ones. The best varieties of narcissus for this 

 purpose are Horsfieldii, Empress and paper-white. The 

 only lily I would advise the amateur to use is the Bermuda, 

 or Horrisii lily. 



Hyacinths, tulips and narcissuses should be sunk their 

 depth in the soil. Use five or six bulbs to a six- or seven-inch 

 pot. They can touch each other without interfering with 

 perfect development. Keep each variety by itself. After 

 putting the bulbs into the soil water well, and then store 

 them in a cool, dark place — a cellar is preferable, though 

 a shed will do very well — and leave them there until roots are 

 formed. On no account should they be brought to the light 

 until the pots are full of roots. This is an item of great im- 

 portance. It generally takes six weeks or two months for 

 full root-development. 



Tulips 



