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AMERICAN HOMES AND GARDENS 



May, 1910 



but begin giving weak liquid manure about once a week. 

 While the days are yet warm, in early September, take your 

 Chrysanthemums to the porch for a few days, then to the 

 house. Nip out the buds in the axils of the leaves, letting 

 the end buds develop and your "Chrysses" will equal any 

 permanent garden's autumn flowers. 



Nothing could be handsomer during August and Septem- 

 ber than a bed or large sunken box where gladiolus, tube- 

 roses, Tigridias and the Scarborough lily would grow to- 

 gether. Gladiolus come in every pretty shade of pink and 

 red; clear white (Augusta) , several yellows and at least one 

 blue; and all of these banded, splotched, penciled, shaded 

 and stained with exquisite tints. I set gladiolus out in May 

 when geraniums go out of doors and I favor deep planting. 

 A medium corm goes down six inches, larger ones eight and 

 smaller ones four, being about six inches apart. They need 

 the rich loam soil and plenty of water. Many gladiolus 

 blooms are as charming as lilies and few flowers last longer 

 or look finer in the house. 



Tuberoses are cheap and easy to grow — and they are the 

 very sweetest flower. The double pearl, three for ten cents, 

 blossoms but once. The single at five cents each is a better 

 investment. They must be potted in April, the pots plunged 

 later in front of the gladiolii. Cut the old roots close to the 



bulb before potting. They bloom in September and throw 

 their matchless fragrance afar. If frost threatens before 

 they are finished, carry them into the house and enjoy their 

 sweetness to the last. Store the bulbs with those of gladio- 

 lus or tuberous begonia. 



The fourth bulb in our bed, Tigridia, is not common, but 

 It is brilliant and beautiful. The pure whites would be fine 

 with the gorgeous Scarboroughs, which are not quite so tall. 

 Tigridias come also in yellow, crimson, pink and spotted 

 varieties. Treat them exactly like gladiolus, but plant only 

 four inches deep. 



As backgrounds for the wanderer's garden, use Caladium 

 Esculentum and Cannas. Plenty of fertilizer and plenty of 

 water comprise their simple wants. Set them at least two 

 feet apart and dig after frost, drying in the sun and storing 

 through the winter. If wanted very early they can be 

 started indoors. 



Next to Chrysanthemums in beauty of autumn bloom are 

 Dahlias. When Dahlias sulk and refuse to blossom, they 

 are either starved for food or water or they received a 

 set-back in the spring from which they could not recover. 



A cold late spring is as bad for Dahlias as a cold early autumn. 

 Therefore it pays to start them in the house in April, though 

 Cannas and Caladiums have to wait for lack of room. 



Trees and Shrubs to Avoid in General Planting 



By Irving E. Johnson 



OR the benefit of the man, who owns a 

 small place in the suburbs, we give a few 

 general rules and hints on what not to 

 plant. 



First: Beware of recent importations of 

 exotics and hybrids, as it requires several 

 years to determine whether or not the 

 plant is suited for our climate. 



Second: Use plants of highly colored and variegated foli- 

 age sparingly, as most of them are inferior to the type de- 

 sired and lose their color by the middle of summer. The 

 Blue Spruce is one of the choicest, but even this should be 

 planted among green spruces for the best effect. 



Third: Weeping forms, such as the Weeping Mul- 

 berry, Camperdown Elm, American Beech, variety pendula, 

 and several other varieties of trees that have been produced 

 by nurserymen, are all inferior to the types, and have no 

 place in general planting on the small suburban estate. 



Fourth: Buy plants that are grown in your locality, as 

 very often a plant grown in South Carolina will not prove 

 hardy in New York, although the one of the same variety 

 and species grown in a northern nursery will be perfectly 

 hardy. 



Fifth: Avoid the so-called "novelties." Few of them are 

 worth while, although often described in the catalogues 

 something like this: "One of the most picturesque plants that 

 Nature has ever given us, and a well-grown specimen will 

 profoundly impress one." 



Besides the exotics, highly colored foliaged plants, and 

 weeping forms, we have lists of plants undesirable on 

 account of the insects and fungus diseases that attack them, 

 also a few half hardy plants, often catalogued as "perfectly 

 hardy." 



Easy methods of communication between one country and 

 another, and the importation of foreign plants, have been 

 the cause of spreading insects and diseases among trees and 

 shrubs. Insects, such as the brown-tail, gypsy and leopard 

 moths, San Jose and oyster shell scales, and the borers, 

 cause the most damage, and many desirable shrubs that 

 were formerly used by the landscape gardeners have been 



discarded, although many are still sold and described in 

 the same flowery language by nurserymen; e. g., the 

 American Mountain Ash (Pyrus Americana), a most at- 

 tractive tree bearing large clusters of scarlet berries, is so 

 badly attacked by borers and the scale, that it is almost im- 

 possible to get a good-sized tree. The same is true of the 

 Balm of Gilead tree (Populus balsamifera) and the Black or 

 Yellow Locust (Robinia Pseudo acacia). The Japanese 

 Quince (Cydonia Japonica) is a favorite of the San Jose 

 scale, although by spraying with whale-oil soap, good 

 specimens may be grown. The Japanese Snowball (the 

 Viburnum opulus) var. sterilis, is badly attacked by aphis, 

 and of late years it has been difllicult to grow this desirable 

 plant. The same is true of some of the Rambler roses, 

 especially the crimson variety, although frequent spraying 

 with ivory soap will keep the foliage clean. 



Fungus diseases, while common, have not done as much 

 damage to ornamental plants as the insects have. They are 

 apt to be of a local nature, and some seasons more notice- 

 able than others. Climatic conditions have much to do with 

 their growth. The Hawthorns are particularly subject to 

 foliage diseases, especially the cockspur thorn, and the 

 scarlet thorn, and where thorns are desired, other varieties 

 can be used. 



White lilac is often troubled by mildew, but not to the 

 extent that it should be discarded. Azalea amoena, A. 

 Indica, Eleagnus umbellata, American Holly, Leucothoe, 

 Mahonia and English Ivy should not be planted north of 

 Connecticut, unless protection can be given during the 

 winter, and even then they are uncertain. The Magnolias all 

 need well prepared ground and protected situations; the 

 same is true of Wistaria. California Privet, north of Mass- 

 achusetts, is apt to be killed to the ground every six or eight 

 years. Ligustrum Ibota is perfectly hardy and can be used 

 where the California privet fails; the same is true of Boston 

 Ivy. Ampelopsis (variety Englemani), should be used 

 instead, as it is in every way as good. 



Many more tress and shrubs that have faults might be 

 listed, but these are the ones with which the amateur is most 

 apt to come in contact. 



