XIV 
AMERICAN HOMES AND GARDENS January, 1909 
# Wood Finishing | 
| Successful Only With © 
Johnson’s Wood Dyes 
JOON Wood Dyes provide the only 
means of finishing woodwork, furniture and 
floors in the home. Because Johnson’s Wood 
Dyes are all that the name implies. They are 
dyes, not stains. Colored varnishes simply give 
a painty effect to the wood you wish to color. 
Any finish on any wood fails of its purpose when 
it merely covers up the wood and the wood’s grain. 
To bring out the beauty of the wood grain, select the 
shade you wish from the 15 shades of Johnson’s Wood 
Dyes, and you will get the effect you want. 
Remember, Johnson’s Wood Dyes are not a com- 
bination of stain and finish—they are. dyes—pure and 
simple—they color the wood without raising the grain— 
‘hey do not coat over the wood. Heel marks, mars and | 
scratches do not show the bareness of the natural | 
wood. eo’ 
The dye penetrates the wood—the finish is another — 
matter. ; 
Color woodwork, floor or furniture—with Johnson's | 
Wood Dyes—and then apply a finish of two coats of 
Johnson’s Prepared Wax. 
TAMING AMIE 
ARTISTIC WOOD FINISHES 
Remember, you cannot get the effect you want unless 
you apply a finish over the Dye. The use of two coats 
of Prepared Wax Black will give a beautiful, rich, artistic 
finish. For a higher gloss than the wax gives, use 
Johnson’s Underlac—better than shellac or varnish—and 
then the Prepared Wax over the Underlac. Our interest- 
ing 48-page color book—‘‘The Proper Treatment of 
Floors, Woodwork and Furniture’’—tells how you can 
easily finish and refinish all wood. Write to-day for 
booklet, edition AH-1. There are fifteen standard shades | 
of Johnson’s Wood Dyes. 
No. 126 Light Oak No. 131 Brown Weathered Oak 
No. 123 Dark Oak No. 132 Green Weathered Oak | 
wVo. 125 Mission Oak No. 121 Moss Green | 
No. 140 Manilla Oak No. 122 Forest Green | 
No. 110 Bog Green No. 172 Flemish Oak 
No. 128 Light Mahogany No. 178 Brown Flemish Oak 
No. 129 Dark Mahogany No. 180 Silver Gray 
No. 130 Weathered Oak. 
Half-pints 30c.; pints 50c. Johnson’s Prepared Wax, 
10c. and 25c. packages. Also sold in large sizes. For 
sale by all leading paint dealers. 
If you desire to refinish wood now varnished, get 
Johnson’s Electric Solvo, which instantly softens and 
makes easily removable any coating. 
Ss. C. JOHNSON ¢& SON, Racine, Wisconsin 
“The Wood Finishing Authorities” 
| 
ARE YOU LOOKING 
FOR A MACHINE 
THAT WILL 
plane out of wind, sur- 
face straight or taper- 
ing, rabbet door 
frames, rabbet and 
face inside blinds, 
joint, bevel, gain, 
chamfer, plow, make 
glue joints, square up bed posts, 
table legs, newels, raise panels, 
either square, bevel or ogee, 
stick beads, work circular mould- 
ings, etc., rip, cross cut, tenon, 
bore, rout, rabbet, jointand bead 
window blinds, work edge 
mouldings, etc.? If so, drop us 
a postal card, and we will send 
you a descriptive circular show- 
ing two views of our No. 62 
Universal Wood Worker. 
- Write 
209-229 West FRouT STREET 
J. A. FAY & EGAN CO. 
No. 62. UNIVERSAL WOOD WORKER CINCINNATI, OHIO 
per cubic foot for a wooden house, although 
there are plenty of houses which have been 
constructed as low as four and five cents per 
cubic foot. But the day of cheap lumber and 
cheap labor is past. A house which could 
have been erected at five cents per cubic foot 
ten years ago would cost to-day anywhere 
from seven to ten cents. “The modern house 
owner expects a good many more comforts 
and luxuries to-day than were considered es- 
sential ten years ago, and the tendency of the 
equipment is to increase simply through the 
invention of more devices for catering to our 
home pleasures. It is, therefore, unwise to 
go back more than a year or two to make 
comparisons with houses. Again, building 
contractors frequently make mistakes and 
lose on a job, or owing to intense competition 
one will undertake to erect a new house at 
little more than cost. It is not good business 
policy to assume that these same conditions 
can be duplicated in your case. It is much 
wiser to figure out the cost on the present 
basis of labor conditions and prices for build- 
ing materials than to draw conclusions from 
what has been done in the past unless all facts 
governing the case are well known. 
Other things being equal, it is cheaper to 
build a larger house than a small one. That 
is, with the same interior finish and equip- 
ment, a house of forty thousand cubic fect 
would be relatively cheaper per cubic foot 
than another containing only twenty thousand 
cubic feet. But usually the larger the house 
the finer the interior finish, and if things are 
carried out on the same generous scale there 
is no reduction in the cost per cubic contents. 
In estimating on a small but comfortable 
home the plumbing can best be considered by 
the number of fixtures. A fair price for each 
fixture is forty dollars to sixty dollars, but the 
cost may easily run up to seventy-five dollars 
to one hundred dollars. A house with six 
fixtures, three in the bath, one in the kitchen 
sink, one in the laundry, and one in a dressing- 
room, should have an allowance of about three 
hundred dollars, or fifty dollars a fixture, 
which means good, sanitary, open plumbing. 
If fancy bowls and equipments are demanded 
fifty dollars a fixture will not be enough, and 
all above this price should be added to the 
general snap estimate. 
The heating plant is likewise a variable 
quantity. Architects usually allow one hun- 
dred and fifty dollars to two hundred dollars 
for the furnace plant in a house costing up- 
ward of three thousand five hundred dollars 
to five thousand dollars, and from three hun- 
dred and fifty dollars to five hundred dollars 
for a steam or hot-water plant. The larger 
the house the more expensive must the heat- 
ing plant be. Each extra register or radiator 
increases the cost. Fancy registers and radi- 
ators have no limit in price, and if one wishes 
to be extravagant in this direction the “snap 
estimate’ must be increased to cover the extra 
cost. Steam heating is generally estimated to 
cost about fifty per cent. more than dry-air 
furnace, and hot-water system twenty per 
cent. more than steam. ‘The indirect system 
of either hot water or steam is the most ex- 
pensive, and is generally fifty per cent. more 
in cost than direct systems. 
Gas piping and gas fixtures, electric lights 
and wiring of the house for current are all 
stumbling blocks for the amateur house 
builder. While gas may be piped at one dol- 
lar to one dollar and fifty cents per outlet, it 
is simple and easy for one to spend ten times 
this sum on chandeliers and side brackets, 
even without the globes and candles. Elec- 
tricity can be installed for the ordinary com- 
fortable home at the rate of one dollar and 
fifty cents per outlet, but ten dollars to fifteen 
dollars are frequently paid for fancy lamps 
and lighting fixtures. All such fancy work 
