May, 1909 
and I have seen them thrive admirably in a 
house corner, close to the wall. 
I have long made it a practise to grow 
peach trees, although I get fruit about one 
year out of five. In Florida, of course, it is 
our hobby, and stands beside the orange as 
the best of our market fruits. Here in the 
North it has its sections, but in Central New 
York and the New England States we can not 
make sure of it, not even in Connecticut. As 
far north as I am living it pays to grow a tew 
trees, provided we can keep the winter sun 
from them, so as not to soften the buds. “The 
tree is generally hardy, and we lose only the 
fruit buds. I should plant first of all, for 
hardiness, the Crosby. The fruit is fairly 
good, and I get more or less of it nearly 
every year. Rankine close after this I should 
place Champion, a large white peach with a 
red cheek, and I think the best peach I have 
ever sampled. Triumph is a very early peach, 
quite hardy, yellow fleshed and of superb 
flavor. Then I would rank close after this 
Belle of Georgia, a sugary peach and most 
delicious. It is a hardy tree and very pro- 
ductive. Niagara deserves the next place for 
hardiness, vigor and productiveness. Stevens’ 
Rareripe might fairly make the sixth, being 
a very fine, free stone, white peach, and ripen- 
ing as late,as October. This leaves out two 
new peaches that I should like to name, the 
Matthews Beauty ard Lamont, both mag- 
nificent fruits and very hardy. I believe, 
however, that Stark Bros., of Missouri, have 
in their long list of new sorts something that 
is going to prove even more hardy for our 
Northern States. I am testing from them, 
Wright, and several more. 
Apricots and nectarines are out of the 
question for the present, yet you can grow 
the apricots, and it will be good fruit for you 
to experiment with after your place has be- 
come well established. 
We will consider grapes in another article 
with the berries. For the present you are well 
equipped for a snug home orchard and fruit 
garden. You will get fruit from your cher- 
ries and plums in two years, from your apples 
and pears in about four years—provided you 
head your trees low. This is a prime re- 
quisite in planting all fruits, in order to get 
early bearing. Head an apple tree down to 
about three feet from the ground, and you 
will get fruit four years quicker than you 
will by heading it up to seven feet. Give 
your apple and pear orchard a southern ex- 
posure, or an eastern. Let your hens run 
in it, and after it is old and trimmed up use 
it for a sheep pasture. The sheep, and to 
some degree the hens, will devour the worms 
and moths. If you grow peaches give them 
a northern exposure, because the winter sun 
splits the bark; and the same is true of sweet 
cherries. Plant your plums in a yard with 
chickens, while your cherry trees will make a 
very good appearance if planted clear around 
your acres. While all trees must be fed, 
be sure you do not put any manure near the 
roots, but dress the surface with rich compost. 
If you are too reckless to keep the suckers 
out of the trees, don’t plant trees. Suckers 
or shoots should be removed every month. 
The apple enemy requires spraying with 
arsenites; the pear requires more care about 
fungus, and must be sprayed with Bordeaux. 
This should be done once before blossoming 
and once after the blossoms have fallen. The 
plum enemy is the curculio, which must be 
caught by jarring the tree over sheets. Use 
a padded pole, then catch the beetles and kill 
them quickly. 
Where room allows, and you surely can 
find room on a place of three or four acres, 
you should plant a few trees specifically to 
(Continued on page xxiv) 
SS = 
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